2016-07-30

Mattstock (1936m) Southeast Face "Variante" (6a, 5 pitches)

Mark, Christian and I set out to Amden at lake Walen to climb the slabs of the Mattstock Southeast face. It's an extremely comfortable approach on a chair lift followed by about an hour of hiking and scrambling. We choose the hardest route on the face, "Variante", consisting of 5 pitches: 5b, 6a, 5c, 5c+, 5a, so it's still relatively easy. I get to lead the first two pitches, followed by Mark and then Christian for the finale. The climbing is on a low angle limestone slab. The difficulty level is quite homogenous and the technique mostly consists of accurate friction foot placements on smooth rock. It's fun, but leaves us slightly dissatisfied at the end. Kinda similar to a McDonald's fast food meal: easy to gulp down but you are not quite full afterwards. The route is too short for a proper workout, yet too long to invite a second run up. Anyway, we hike back to the lift and rent trottinettes for the way down - huge fun!

The big blank slabs center-left of the image are our destination.
Mark & Christian, Mürtschenstock dominates the panorama.
Scrambling up on the approach.
Me in the crux section: a short vertical step.
Mark was singing a lullaby and I fell asleep - no other explanation for the mornonic look in my face ;-)
Slabby McSlabface.
Mark hanging around at the belay.
Smooth except for well placed nice pockets.
Christian hanging around at the final belay.
View towards the East. The other pictures didn't quite capture the inclination of the wall, but you can get an idea here.
On the ridge.
Summit selfie.
Who allowed this guy to ride one of these?!