tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88824442024-03-16T02:11:05.724+01:00BuschnicKOutdoor enthusiast, programmer, opinionated babbling bloke.
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.comBlogger704125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-51523146214881372522023-11-26T18:27:00.048+01:002023-12-18T18:40:01.826+01:00Chli Aubrig (1642m)<p>This time the proposal was to hike up to Chli Aubrig. It’s almost the end of November and there was enough snow already towards the mountains south of Zürich. I asked Sören if I should prepare for snow, but I will soon learn that I did not realise just how much snow there was going to be!</p>
<p>The hike started at the edge of Euthal, close to Sihlsee, following a small stream uphill.</p>
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<center>Chli Aubrig is behind the peak visible here, amidst the clouds.</center>
<p>We had to start breaking trail soon after, as we moved further outside the village. Sören led the path, offering to break trail throughout! I would not trust myself with doing it, even if I had gators on.</p>
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<p>The trail soon climbed through a beautiful forest with numerous icicles from frozen streams. We crossed a steel bridge over a waterfall at the end of the forest.</p>
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<center>We walked past the two huts on the left, to this view of the Sihlsee. </center>
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<p>From here the trail goes through another forest with scenes straight from a winter wonderland! The photosphere mode came in handy and I managed to <a href="https://panoraven.com/en/embed/JfPjNA614O" target="_blank">shoot a 360° view</a>. I spent way too much time in the forest, and Sören had to wait for me further up under this frozen tree. Beautiful but really cold!</p>
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<center>A short lunch break here, and we moved further along the trail. We continued our conversation about what brings purpose and joy to us, which I thoroughly enjoyed. </center>
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<center>Frozen trail signs!</center>
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<center>Sören (left) and me (right).</center>
<center>We reached the summit soon, which was also, of course, frozen.</center>
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<center>Summit!</center>
<p>The path down from the summit was steep initially. Sören practically ran down the snow, while I mostly slid down, which meant that now I had a lot of snow in my shoes. </p>
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<p>Walking back to the car, we saw horses who were just very excited to gallop around in the snow! We got some pictures and videos for Leonie since she likes horses now!</p>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Chli Aubrig, 8857 Vorderthal, Switzerland47.1074911 8.862254499999998818.797257263821152 -26.2939955 75.417724936178843 44.0185045tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-27848251026364311612023-10-29T08:44:00.028+01:002023-12-08T08:55:17.294+01:00Mochi's adventures on the Arvigrat<p>Björn got invited for a hike on Sunday, and since the whole month of October had had gorgeous weather, the expectation was that there would be no to only very little snow up to 2000m. Given that it would be a Sören-hike, Sandra still feared that it might be a bit much for the other members of the pack, but Sören assured us that it we'd be fine. Sandra worries too much. So on Sunday morning we had some breakfast, and drove the winding path to Wirzweli. Thanks to the end of summertime, we didn't even lose any sleep!</p>
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<p>I met old friends (hi Sören) and new ones (hi Afroz!) and managed to get a few pets. We then started up the steeper side of the loop. First we encountered a herd of cows going down the mountain, and Sandra did not approve of me wanting to defend us all against these monsters. I did get some treats in return, so no hard feelings. And more importantly, we all survived that encounter.</p>
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<p>Up and up we went, and it was indeed wonderfully warm and sunny. By now I got to roam free (for whatever reason, whenever there were other dogs, I happened to be on leash so we couldn't play), and could scout the way. Parts of the path were pretty steep, and rocky, and once we reached the higher parts of the hike, it was exciting to see the valley on both sides of the ridge. I had never been on such a steep ridge before, but still managed to kick Sandra's ass in speed and surefootedness. 4WD FTW! Sören and Björn got off the beaten path, and ended up on the highest peak - Sandra, Afroz and I had a better sense of direction and followed the trail.</p>
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<p>Whenever Sandra took pictures, Sören tried to teach me the new command 'Instagram' to make sure I'd show my best face. I could show how well I had managed that when there was a wooden heart with a bench, showing both me and the beautiful view in our best light.</p>
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<p>When we made it back to Wirzweli, we went for some hot drinks and snacks to replenish the energy lost during the 18km of walking and 1100m in altitude. Sören had a banana ice cream ("accidentally" the large portion), and I got a fine chew bone. Only after finishing everything, we started to get a bit chilly on the terrace, so we made our way back to the parking lot and drove off.</p>
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<center><a href="https://www.instagram.com/foxredmochi/" target="_blank">Instagram!</a></center>
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<p>Thank you Sören for introducing me to Sörenhikes! I don't understand why Sandra was so worried about this :)</p>
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<center>The author ;-) Thank you Sandra!</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Arvigrat, 6383 Dallenwil, Switzerland46.8903477 8.3382818.580113863821154 -26.817970000000003 75.200581536178845 43.49453tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-32052237917677790622023-10-07T10:07:00.242+02:002023-12-01T12:44:55.994+01:00Alpstein Traverse: Neuenalpspitz (1817m), Stooss (2112m), Säntis (2502m)<p>After several smaller hikes I was in the mood to "go big". Endurance monster Arne is the perfect partner for this kind of thing. I had seen some <a href="https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=alpstein+reitergrat" target="_blank">inspiring videos of the Reitergrat</a> and wanted to check out the area. The Alpstein is nominally close to Zürich but still offers a logistical challenge - public transportation connections there are not great. Thus I had only ever been to a few of its peaks and a full traverse seemed like an obvious next step. Many of the peaks in the chain are steep and unforgiving and require proper reconnaissance and gear, making it infeasible to tick all of them off in a single go. But we could at least do an end to end reconnaissance trip.</p>
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<center>Arne.</center>
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<center>Sören.</center>
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<center></center>
<p>We took the car to Wattwil and continued from there via bus to Starkenbach. We fully expected to run out of daylight on this trip and this setup allowed us to get there with one of the earliest buses in the morning while still being able to return to the car via public transportation late at night (when most of the minor connections would stop running). This worked out exactly as planned ;-)</p>
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<center>View from the Schlafstein, the first minor summit.</center>
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<center>Always the Churfirsten...</center>
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<center>Being offered liquor on the summit. A rare experience ;-P You can see the Säntis tower in the far distance - that's only halfway for us!</center>
<p>The first part of the trip had us gain altitude in the wild gorge of the Neuenalp creek. It was freezing cold in the shade of the early morning, but the day was already shaping up to be beautiful - blue skies. We didn't meet anyone but were accompanied by the sound of chainsaws echoing off the cliffs. The echoes made it very difficult to pinpoint where exactly the sound was coming from and we puzzled for a while until we actually caught up to the lumbermen at Rotenstein. </p>
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<center></center>
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<center></center>
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<center></center>
<p>At one point we passed a military style canteen that was labeled with a friendly "help yourself" sticker. We ignored it because we were in a good flow and didn't want to stop. A few minutes later we gained the Neuenalpspitz summit. Two people in a decidedly good mood were enjoying the views and welcomed us heartily. It was only ten in the morning but they were already drinking from tiny liquor bottles. Turned out they had stocked the canteen with just such bottles. They invited us to join them but when we pointed out where we were headed they instead offered us some for the road. And shot us half admiring, half disbelieving glances for our planned itinerary.</p>
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<center>Arne coming up the last few meters to the Stooss summit.</center>
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<center>We scrambled up that steep grass section on the right!</center>
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<center>Stooss summit.</center>
<p>We descended a steep trail towards the northern side of the ridge. Unfortunately the next string of summits was prohibitively steep to climb without proper preparation. So we traversed under their steep faces and regained the ridge only at the Lauchwis. The trail traverses just under the Stooss summit and this time I couldn't help myself but had to go for the small detour. It turned out that the Stooss summit is an incredibly steep and exposed scramble. Absolutely unforgiving <a href="https://www.engadin.ch/en/levels-of-difficulty/" target="_blank">T6 style</a> terrain.</p>
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<center>Always a good sign when your "hiking" trail comes equipped with climbing bolts.</center>
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<center>Arne. Clouds moving in.</center>
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<center>Gulping down some liquid at the Tierwis restaurant. At this point it was windy and chilly.</center>
<p>We allowed ourselves only a small rest before pressing on towards the restaurant Tierwis. At this point we had both mostly run out of water and were hoping to refill our bottles there. They didn't have any potable water either, so we ordered a liter of beer/coke/shorle each and downed it in one gulp. At this point it had gotten cold and windy and it was twenty past three in the afternoon. Measured by horizontal distance we were barely halfway through with our planned route. But luckily most of the elevation gain was now in the past. The innkeeper shook his head when he learned of our plans.</p>
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<center>Trail towards the Säntis summit.</center>
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<center>Chamois.</center>
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<center></center>
<p>Säntis is a major tourist destination with an enormous restaurant, observation deck and installation on the top. Thus for the scramble towards that summit we found ourselves suddenly surrounded by people. We quickly ticked it off and continued down towards the "Blauschnee" ("blue snow") glacier. Or rather, the sad remains thereof. You can only catch glimpses of snow under mountains of rubble. </p>
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<center>The way to the summit leads *through* the mountain.</center>
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<center>Säntis summit.</center>
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<center>They may have overdone the summit marker?</center>
<p>With ~25km and 2500m elevation gain in our legs we were becoming less and less enthusiastic about taking on more detours. Especially if we wouldn't be rewarded with a summit anyways. Thus we decided to head directly towards the planned endpoint of the trip. Dusk was beginning to fall. This didn't worry us - we only had easy terrain ahead of us and between the two of us we brought three head torches and two cell phones. Then we caught up to a lone hiker who was stumbling down the trail. His footing was extremely unsure and it looked like he could barely keep himself upright. We talked to him and offered our help. He declined, saying he was just extremely exhausted and that his friend had run ahead to ask the hut for an emergency shelter for the night. We continued past him, anxiously discussing what we could or should have done.</p>
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<center>Scrambling back down. Steep, but well protected.</center>
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<center>Still a long way to go.</center>
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<center>Getting dark by the time we reached the Seealpsee.</center>
<p>About halfway down to the hut a guy came up towards us, clearly moving as fast as he could. We correctly reasoned that this must be the friend who went for help. He told us that the hut didn't have any available slots and that they'd have to make it all the way down the mountain on their own. It was very nearly dark at this point, so Arne and I again offered our help. This time we convinced him to take an emergency blanket and two of our head torches. It turned out this was a very good decision: Arne and I would make it back to the parking lot by around 8 pm. The other two texted us later and told us Arne's head torches were a lifesaver for them - it took them until midnight to get back down, a full five hours in pitch black darkness. They returned our gear a few days later via mail.</p>
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<center>Cool art installation at a hydro power station: the water shoots out of the nozzle and slowly chips away at the concrete slab.</center>
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<center>A welcome drink dispenser just before the parking lot.</center>
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<center>Full circle: drink the liquor we received at the beginning of the trip at the very end of it.</center>
<p>Strava stats:</p>
<ul>
<li>Moving Time: 9:47:25</li>
<li>Elapsed Time: 12:33:15</li>
<li>Distance: 29.41km</li>
<li>Elevation: 2481m up, 2481m down</li>
</ul>
<p>A fantastic day out. Extremely satisfying that I can still pull this off with no adverse effects other than being a bit tired the next day. That's a promising baseline to build upon ;-P I'll definitely be back to tick off the missing peaks in this chain - it looks like there are quite a few nice climbing opportunities.
</p>
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BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Säntis, 9107 Wildhaus-Alt St Johann, Switzerland47.249385 9.343234299999998918.939151163821151 -25.8130157 75.559618836178842 44.4994843tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-68754013090356718662023-10-01T10:44:00.134+02:002023-11-25T09:35:42.612+01:00Vilan (2375m)<p>For this hike Afroz and I recruited another one of our colleagues: Razvan would join for the first time. We got lucky and the first day of October was a beautifully sunny day. More than that, it was a temperature inversion day, where it was warmer high up than low down. This meant that we'd rise out of the fog and have a rolling layer of clouds below us. Great atmosphere (figuratively and literally ;-P).</p>
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<center>Nice garden, building and statue!</center>
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<center>Secluded steep path leaving the village.</center>
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<center>Afroz looking serious.</center>
<p>Going by my usual algorithm of "any hike I haven't done yet is great" we chose the Prättigau in Grisons this time around. We started in the tiny village of Seewis and headed up to Vilan via its long East ridge. Nice trail, not very exposed but still offering great views. Along the way there were some doubts whether the route might be too long and whether some/all of us would turn around. Strategic deployment of gummi bears patched over these temporary lapses of motivation and judgement and all three of us reached the summit together.</p>
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<center>Others taking advantage of the weather: glider plane being dragged up.</center>
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<center>Afroz and Razvan coming up.</center>
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<center>A paraglider.</center>
<p>My original plan would have us go back down towards the North and circle the entire mountain to arrive back at the car. Given the current time and energy levels this seemed a bit too ambitious. So we decided to go towards the cable car at Älpli. This was a fine alternative if it wasn't for two minor snags: first, one is meant to reserve the cable car in advance to get a spot. It's a tiny and slow one. Second, it gets us down to an entirely wrong village, far away from our starting point and car.</p>
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<center>Afroz' favorite mountain range, the Churfirsten, peaking just above the clouds.</center>
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<center>Summit.</center>
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<center>Coming down the steep grassy slopes on the Northern side.</center>
<p>The eventual solution was for Afroz and Razvan to have a coffee on the terrasse of the cablecar top station, waiting for the next available slot, while I hiked down to get the car. I literally ran down the mountain and managed to reach the base about the same time as the other two got a ride - about 1100m of descent in an hour. When I volunteered for this little extra mileage I only eyeballed the map and glimpsed over the fact that the trail went down too far, adding a 500m climb back up to the car. The mountain has an odd shape where one needs to navigate a huge ravine and cliff by descending all the way to its base and then climb back up the other side. It's a beautiful trail, but at this point I was out of water and soon out of daylight. And I was still moving as fast as a I could in order to not make the others wait for too long. I arrived back at the village by dusk and was greeted by Alphorns playing. </p>
<p>Great day out. Several personal records broken in the group in terms of elevation gain in a day or fastest descent time ;-P</p>
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<center></center>
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<center>Looking back at our descent route.</center>
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<center>Rega flying someone off the mountain. Lots of action in the sky today...</center>
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<center></center>
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<center>This was after I left the others on the terrasse of the cafe. The trail went right through this group of male (!) cattle. Made me a tad uneasy. I have crossed many meadows with cows on them on my hikes,<a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2015/07/niederbauen-chulm-1923m-oberbauenstock.html" target="_blank"> only once have they ever been aggressive</a>. But just two weeks later Sandra would tell me a story of how one of her friends got trampled by cows so badly that when they finally found her she had to be airlifted to the hospital...</center>
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<center>Natural picture frame.</center>
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<center>Quite spectacular trail, cut into the side of the mountain.</center>
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<center>Sun going down. Better hurry!</center>
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<center>The red part is what we did together, the blue is my bonus sprint.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Vilan, 7212 Seewis im Prättigau, Switzerland47.0125804 9.603170618.702346563821152 -25.5530794 75.322814236178843 44.7594206tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-20303254181608855412023-09-17T17:41:00.041+02:002023-11-21T07:36:46.097+01:00Mattjischhorn (2460m)<p>After hiking to <a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2023/09/selun-2205m.html" target="_blank">Selun</a>, I tagged along on my second hike with Sören, and by the time I wrote this blog, I had tagged along on a few more! Sören chose the trail, again by placing his fingers on the map where he hadn’t been yet. This time, we also got Łukasz to join!</p>
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<center>Lake Zurich heading south</center>
<p>The choice was Mattjischhorn, near Arosa. We drove to Chur with a stop in Heidiland. With the naivety of me never having been there, I assumed it to be a Swiss village with beautiful alpine landscape - turns out it is a glorified highway rest station, albeit with good food.</p>
<p>The road up from Chur twists and turns around the hills, giving a clear view of the valley including the impressive <a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Langwieser_Viadukt" target="_blank">Langwieser Viadukt</a>. Łukasz gave us hints of unease, clearly unsettled by the exposed nature of the road. The drive ended with a private access road, from the village of Langwies. </p>
<p>We started our hike in Strassberg, passing the mostly empty summer houses in the small village. The ascent began after passing the ski restaurant. </p>
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<center>Looking back at Strassberg</center>
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<center>Wooden flower beds that I love. I recommended my parents get one of these for their garden back home.</center>
<p>We quickly made our way up the first summit, with Sören leading the way as always. Happy faces! </p>
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<center>Łukasz and I climbed down with a bit of scramble.</center>
<p>The next part of the route we planned was to descend from this summit and follow a ridge towards Mattjischhorn. The narrow ridge was challenging for me but Sören kept spirits high leading the way and, of course, with a song. This picture of us on the ridge puts the song in perspective.</p>
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<center><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5ves2zYwHo" target="_blank"><i>“are you ready to stumble,<br>
are you ready to fall”</i><br></a>
Sören</center>
<p>How well suited for a ridge hike! We finally made it to Mattjishorn. A short break for lunch sandwiches and sausages, followed by a stretch on the grass. I remarked that it was such a nice place to sleep, to which Sören made us realize how we were lying in cow shit. </p>
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<center>Summit - Mattjischhorn</center>
<p>We walked down and further along the ridge. It got narrower and at one point we held on to a rope, one at a time, to get across.</p>
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<p>We reached a hut at the saddle which was also when we decided to turn around back towards Strassberg. Sören would have loved to push for a few more summits but it was already a longer than usual hike for me and Łukasz. </p>
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<center>Łukasz on the marsh planks</center>
<p>We walked across what seemed to be an expansive marshland. I found the terrain to be beautiful with small grass mounds dotting the hill and tiny streams flowing down towards the ravine in the valley below. The marshland was easy to cross, thanks to a long pathway of solid planks.</p>
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<center>Fondeierbach pastures and cattle alongside</center>
<p>I love such rivulets and I was glad to follow this all the way down to Strassberg. </p>
<p>We took the road back to Chur. This time I got in the front to see the winding roads! Sören had injured his shoulder and he was in quite some pain by the time we reached Chur. The pizzas helped, but unfortunately we forgot to take any pictures!</p>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Mattjisch Horn, 7057 Arosa, Switzerland46.8511293 9.723613918.540895463821151 -25.4326361 75.161363136178835 44.879863900000004tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-17235574318721632022023-09-09T17:29:00.098+02:002023-10-30T18:14:29.590+01:00Jegihorn (3206m), via "Alpendurst", 300m, 4c<p>I have long since wanted to climb the famous Alpendurst route in Wallis. When we set out to do so <a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2013/09/wallis.html" target="_blank">ten years ago</a> my climbing partner was sick and we had to bail. This time around it was a great success. Ventsi has recently caught the climbing bug and was keen to get some outdoor experience. The family on the other hand was keen on a camping expedition. Thus we combined the two. Ventsi graciously agreed to write a trip report from his perspective, so the text below is all his (I only did the image selection and captions). Thank you very much Ventsi!</p>
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<center>Autoverlad Lötschbergtunnel - the kids were super excited about driving onto a train.</center>
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<center>Exploring the creek at the campground.</center>
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<center>We built bark boats and let them float.</center>
<p>I was quieter than usual on the approach. The Alpendurst climb was supposed to be only grade 4c, which is well below what I had done in the past, but I had never tried a 300m multi-pitch, let alone one in such altitude, so I didn't know what to expect of my body. I was conserving every bit of energy, just in case. It was already getting hot early in the morning, the sun was shining and there was not a single cloud in sight - a beautiful day through and through, but not exactly ideal for a long day of climbing. Only a weekend ago I had done another multi-pitch in the constant unrelenting embrace of the high-noon sun - an experience I was hardly looking forward to repeating again.</p>
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<center>Leonie practicing slab technique.</center>
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<center>Setting up camp.</center>
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<center></center>
<p>My concerns turned out to be unsubstantiated - at least as far as the climb itself went. Alpendurst was a pleasant and fun route, almost undemanding with one or two exceptions. What would prove to be the actual challenge that day was the descent - a dangerous test of stamina that would squeeze more sweat out of me than I was expecting. And some blood... None of that however was apparent when we arrived at the wall in the morning. We found it already besieged by other climbers - many of them already on their way, two groups patiently waiting for their turn to start climbing. </p>
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<center>Crawling through a flood pipe.</center>
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<center>Lukas.</center>
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<center>Leonie.</center>
<p>This is evidently the downside of Alpendurst’s popularity - there is no shortage of people wanting to climb it. Much of that is no doubt due to the extensive documentation of the route. I had researched it in advance and found an abundance of information - topos, descriptions, detailed ratings of all pitches, locations of safety bolts and anchors. You go into the climb with as much information as you can possibly want. Combine all this with a fairly reasonable difficulty level and the crowds start flocking. We waited our turn patiently, used the time to discuss strategy and - very important - make selfies. </p>
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<center>Anita.</center>
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<center>Good night!</center>
<p>Alpendurst is absolutely a treat for the climber. Great rock quality - nothing crumbles or moves loosely under your hands. You grip onto something and it is guaranteed to hold. In that regard it is almost like a climbing gym, only you have real rock in your hands. The route is long and consistent in difficulty - 300m of 4c pitches, nothing more, nothing less. The true beauty of Alpendurst is however in the variety of its terrain. Every pitch brings something new - there are slab sections, corners, traverses, a few muscle-bound sections that require strength. Despite its length, Alpendurst keeps you entertained and at no point you have the feeling that you’re grinding the same terrain over and over. </p>
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<center>Ventsi on the approach.</center>
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<center>The objective.</center>
<p>After two or three pitches my silent demeanor cleared and I started to feel at home, even cracked a few jokes. We were climbing swiftly, finishing each pitch without delay, but our progress was stifled by the crowds on the wall. One group in particular was taking its sweet time - giving each other commands and chronicling each move in loud Italian. Everytime Sören and I would conclude a pitch, we would have to wait for the Italian brigade to free up the next. Suffice to say that Sören was not a fan. I wonder which was worse for him - the slow speed or the loud and incessant shouting. Earlier that day when we discussed strategy, Sören attempted to convince me to climb silently and “listen to the rope” instead of shouting commands at each other. This is the way Sören climbs with his usual partners, but I had to put my foot down and dissuade him from that, given that this was our first multi-pitch together.</p>
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<center>Via ferrata rope bridge.</center>
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<center>Ventsi coming up.</center>
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<center>Good mood.</center>
<p>Luckily, Sören had brought his trad gear, so at one of the anchors, while waiting for the Italians to clear up the next pitch, he proposed we go off-route. This way we had a chance of overtaking the Italians. I haven’t tried trad, but given that Sören would be leading and hence taking the brunt of the danger onto himself, I agreed to try it out. For me this essentially would mean that I would be top-roping on an already established route and being belayed from the top with no added risk. This turned out to be quite fun - it allowed us to go on a bit more difficult terrain and to climb at our own speed. I had to collect the trad gear on my way up, which was the first time in my life that I touched a cam. Sören was joking that he is leaving extra challenges for me on the way up, referring to all the special equipment that I needed to pick up (and decipher how it actually works as I go). </p>
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<center></center>
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<center></center>
<p>In no time we managed to leave the Italians safely behind. But Sören was not done spicing up the climb yet. His next suggestion was to try simul climbing, also known as running belay. This is a technique which allows you to cover several pitches in a row without stopping at the belay stations. The whole idea is that the leader starts leading and when there is no more rope remaining the belayer just starts climbing as well. Both partners climb at the same time. If one of them happens to fall, the other climber is their counterweight. I wouldn’t have tried this on a more challenging route, but I hadn’t felt even close to failing at any point that day and was still in excellent shape. I communicated with Sören that I’m willing to try it, but only for 2 or at most 3 pitches and off we went. I watched the rope keep slithering up on the rock, even after I lost vision of Sören. Once there was no more rope remaining I disconnected my belay device, unhooked my munter hitch from the anchor and started climbing myself. This was clearly a much faster way to progress and more stamina-intensive, as you don’t have a break in between pitches. All in all, everything went without any problems. I reached Sören who was patiently waiting for me at the belay station 2 or 3 pitches above and we reset back to normal, as agreed.</p>
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<center></center>
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<center>An improvised anchor. Not my best work, but it held ;-P</center>
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<center></center>
<p>I had stopped counting the pitches a long time ago. I knew there were a total of 14, but I had no idea where exactly we were and how many were remaining. I was completely engulfed in the fun of climbing. Unfortunately, this is where I fell - for the first and only time during the climb. I had just started following a pitch - a bolt or two above the ledge - when I made the mistake of stepping on some shrubs. What looked perfectly stable mere moments ago promptly gave way and fell apart once I put my weight onto it. I found myself falling a few meters and then dangling on the rope. I learned a valuable lesson - we are rock climbers, not plant climbers. On a wall with perfect rock quality where no edge felt loose, I had managed to find a plant to climb on. Once I reached the end of the pitch I examined my body and found it surprisingly bruise-free. The only victim of my fall was the rope itself, which had dragged over the jagged terrain and was left with a visible tear in the sheath close to my harness. Luckily, the core of the rope was intact, but anyway I opted for playing it safe and retied my figure-of-eight on my harness in such a way that the compromised section of the rope would not carry any weight. The damage was very close to the end of the rope, so we didn’t sacrifice much length.</p>
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<center></center>
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<center>The kids coming up while we were still climbing.</center>
<p>Soon after that we reached the top. We had managed to make up for the delay with the Italians and we were back within our time schedule. We had a short snack, took the obligatory pictures next to the wooden cross that the Swiss people love mounting at the top of their peaks and made our way down.</p>
<p>This is where things became sketchy. The descent was a standard T4 white-blue-white trail that was supposed to continue for 300m elevation and eventually wind up at the standard approach trail. Nothing new for Sören who dashed down like a mountain goat, waiting for me at the trickier sections. I, on the other hand, progressed much slower. I was carrying the rope dangling on my back and every once in a while had unexpected effects on my balance. The trail was rock plates loosely stacked upon each other, moving treacherously beneath your feet once you step on them. I decided to err on the side of caution and progressed slowly. Unfortunately, at some point during the descent, I deviated from the trail and ended up in no man’s land. No Sören in sight. The white-blue-white markings had been sporadic enough that their absence didn’t alert me immediately. And once it became obvious I was off-course, I was already too far away. </p>
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<center>Adventure playground at the top station of the cable car.</center>
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<center>Bird showing off.</center>
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<center>Lukas in the foreground, Jegihorn in the background.</center>
<p>Sören called my cell phone - he had been waiting for me at the beginning of the standard approach trail, which ironically had been just a few meters away from the spot where I deviated. He got suspicious when several hikers passed him on their way down and there was no Ventsi in sight. Thankfully, he decided to go back up in search of me and managed to eventually spot me in the distance - already way down. We decided to continue down off track, but soon enough it became clear that this was a dangerous gamble. Sören navigated using the GPS on his phone and thanks to him we managed to avoid several cliffs deceitfully lurking nearby. We found ourselves in a rockfall area where the rock plates didn’t just move beneath your feet, but also tended to slip and tumble down the slope with hideous bangs. It felt like moving down a scree path, only instead of tiny sliding pebbles we were knocking off 20-30kg rocks that were battering down the slope with all their force, each cracking sound resembling a gunshot. Abruptly, we became aware that there are people behind us by the sound of tumbling rocks above. The Italian brigade from earlier. They had also started their descent and lost the trail. I must have been the only visible thing in the vista and they must have followed me. Unfortunately, that made the descent that much more dangerous, because we never knew if one of them would set off a landslide above us that might land on us. Sören pushed for us to move faster as any minute we spent in that area would put us in more danger. In the hurry, I managed to braze my ankle which left a continuous numb pain and a small bleeding wound on my leg.</p>
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<center>Summit!</center>
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<center>Scrambling down.</center>
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<center>Looking back at the wall / summit / descent route.</center>
<p>To top all that off, the descent took more time than the climb itself and soon it became clear that we will miss the last cable car down. We would arrive at the 2000m station late in the afternoon and then we would have to keep hiking down the standard hiking paths. Once we cleared the trickier section of the off-trail descent, Sören dashed down towards the cable car station. I don’t know what kind of a silver-tongued devil Sören must be, but his powers of persuasion must know no bounds, because once I made my way to the cable car station, I found the operators patiently waiting for me to start the cable car just for us with Sören. During the ride down, we sprawled leisurely and the tension of the descent dissipated quickly. We started laughing and joking about it. In Sören’s case he was worried not so much because of the difficulty of the descent - for him that must have been nothing special - but rather because his family was waiting for him down in Saas-Fee to drive back to Zurich.</p>
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<center>Ventsi really didn't like scrambling over loose scree...</center>
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<center>...but somebody else liked it even less. Notice the Rega helicopter flying a rescue mission, picking people up from where we just left.</center>
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<center>My silver-tongue was bribing the operator and paying him his "Feierabend Bier" to wait an extra 15 minutes before shutting down the cable car for the day.</center>
<p>In the end, what I can say is that Alpendurst is an extremely fun and rewarding climb. If you make your way up though, make sure you don’t miss the trail on the way down.</p>
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<center>Spectacular mood and views on the way back. This time we didn't take the tunnel but used the passes instead. The perfect pyramid at the horizon is my <a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2015/07/nesthorn-3822m.html" target="_blank">proudest mountaineering achievement to date, the Nesthorn</a>.</center>
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<center>Beautiful Grimsel Pass.</center>
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<center>Home. The kids are dead ;-P</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Jegihorn, 3910 Saas-Grund, Switzerland46.1514432 7.970281617.841209363821157 -27.1859684 74.461677036178855 43.1265316tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-73275954271473169572023-09-03T10:18:00.063+02:002023-10-06T08:27:22.136+02:00Selun (2205m)<p>I was on kids duty in the morning which left only half a day for the mountains. Afroz was up for a hike and we chose one of the Churfirsten as our destination. They are only a short drive away from home and we could cut the ascent in half by using one of Switzerland's <a href="https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-ch/experiences/summer-autumn/listicles/unusual-cable-cars-and-mountain-railways/" target="_blank">Unusual cable cars and mountain railways</a>, the <a href="https://selunbahn.business.site/" target="_blank">Selunbahn</a>. This is basically an open wooden box dangling off a metal wire. Funky ride. </p>
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<center>Our destination is the inclined green tennis court mountain on the left.</center>
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<center>Afroz, with the Alpstein as backdrop.</center>
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<center>One step at a time...</center>
<p>The hike itself was fairly unremarkable. A long grassy ramp all the way to the summit. From there we could enjoy dramatic views straight down to lake Walen. The best thing about this hike was really the company. We had a great conversation going all day long where I learned a lot about India. Afroz also told me about his standup comedy routine - he has recently started touring the bars in Zürich. Chapeau! I'd never dare go up on stage like that. Nevermind that I also wouldn't be funny ;-P</p>
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<center></center>
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<center>Walensee. It's a steep enough drop just below us that there are some rock climbing routes on it.</center>
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<center>Afroz on the ridge. There's a T6 traverse linking all of the Churfirsten summits. A daring feat and absolute endurance monster.</center>
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<center></center>
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<center>Summit.</center>
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<center>The cablecar. Seats four. When we took it, Afroz was the fifth person and had to duck into the lower back corner. Uncomfortable, but luckily only a short ride.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Selun, 9656 Wildhaus-Alt St Johann, Switzerland47.1526 9.255569999999998718.842366163821154 -25.90068 75.462833836178845 44.41182tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-20590139622963105842023-08-11T18:30:00.088+02:002023-09-24T14:04:53.704+02:00Gandschijen (2388m), via "Gatsch", 220m, 6a<p>Björn, Tom and I planned to climb the "Gatsch", a route at the Gandschijen at the Göscheneralp. Björn is a strong gym climber but doesn't have a ton of experience outside. So the idea was that Tom and I would share the leads, especially on pitches that require augmenting the bolts with trad protection. Unfortunately Björn got sick and had to bail at the last minute. So it was down to just Tom and me.</p>
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<center>Behold this beauty! So many possible lines on this wall.</center>
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<center>Tom on the approach.</center>
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<center>Me lagging behind. We passed a family having breakfast on the terrasse of their mountain hut. We came by them again on the way down and reported on our climb. Nice chance encounter ;-)</center>
<p>As soon as we started the approach I felt weak and under the weather. It felt like my engine had leaky valves somewhere - despite a crazy heart rate, I didn't seem to get any power in my legs. Had to stop and catch my breath every couple of meters. It got bad enough that I suspected I might have contracted another round of Corona. There had certainly been plenty of opportunity with our recent trips to <a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2023/07/denmark-2023.html" target="_blank">crowded Legoland, Hamburg's Miniatur Wunderland and riding packed subways on Christopher Street Day</a>. Anyway. Tom was patiently waiting for me and we made it to the base of the climb.</p>
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<center>Tom leading the first pitch.</center>
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<center>Me leading a funky balancy diagonale.</center>
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<center>Tom.</center>
<p>For the first couple of pitches I made an effort to lead my share, but eventually I gave up and Tom led the crux and one of my pitches. Despite my somewhat miserable state it was still a beautiful climb on bomber rock in great weather. I have no regrets pushing myself to continue. Although I did have to cheat a move on the crux - all the more reason to return to this nice wall. I think Björn and I should make it our objective to go for a second round ;-P</p>
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<center>Beautiful flake.</center>
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<center>Photo-bombing of a different kind - paraglider behind us.</center>
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<center>Tom entering the crux section traversing below the small roof.</center>
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<center>Me struggling with the wet holds. In the end I had to admit defeat and pull on the rope for a move. Chapeau to Tom for leading this cleanly!</center>
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<center>There was a freshly dug out cave at the top. Strahler hunting for crystals. I collected some of the left-over ones for our kids. The photo doesn't capture this well, but these were really glittery in the sun.</center>
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<center>Our good deed on the way down: we replaced a bunch of the rotten slings with my backup cord.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Gandschijen, 6487 Göschenen, Switzerland46.6622569 8.510364218.352023063821157 -26.645885800000002 74.972490736178855 43.6666142tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-4532712322278455242023-07-22T09:21:00.133+02:002023-09-16T16:04:26.274+02:00Denmark 2023<p>Most people seek out warm beaches for their summer vacation. We are inclined to go the other direction and escape the heat rather than seek it. This year we went to Denmark in July. Ecological considerations meant we intended to avoid flying and booked a night train from Zürich to Hamburg half a year in advance. A week before departure the railway company informed us that the sleeping coach we booked would not actually be on the train. WTF? Faced with a twelve hour train ride through the night with kids in a regular coach we ended up booking a flight after all. So stupid. Talk about making it hard for people to do the right thing. First, the railways of the two countries we meant to travel don't actually offer night trains (neither Switzerland nor Germany have any), so you book with the Austrian railway. Then the offer is so popular that you need to book on the very day they enable it, half a year in advance. And finally they don't actually deliver. Anyway. We made it to Hamburg by plane and got a rental car for the last leg of the journey to our rented vacation house Juelsminde in Denmark.</p>
<p>For us this location had another benefit besides the cooler climate: we could have friends from both Hamburg and Stockholm visit us. Having an entire country between us means we get to see each other far too rarely and this offered a great opportunity to spend a few days together. First, Linus, Gintare, Upe and Elve visited from Sweden. Then Thomas and Stine drove up from Hamburg. Of course we had to go see Legoland with both of them. So our poor kids had to endure that experience twice ;-P</p>
<p>Very hygge two weeks!</p>
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<center>Lukas first flight and Leonie's third.</center>
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<center>First glimpse of the sea.</center>
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<center><a href="https://www.kystlandet.com/coastal-land/plan-your-trip/juelsminde-nature-playpark-naturlegepark-gdk1117327" target="_blank">Juelsminde adventure playground</a>.</center>
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<center></center>
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<center>Linus, Gintare and kids show up from Stockholm.</center>
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<center>Cold!</center>
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<center></center>
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<center>Soccer match.</center>
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<center>Bedtime episode.</center>
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<center><a href="https://www.legoland.dk/en/" target="_blank">Legoland Billund</a>. Massively overcrowded on this visit.</center>
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<center>Leonie underwater.</center>
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<center>About to be eaten by a spider.</center>
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<center>Great live show. Leonie is into horses at the moment and real life jousting left her open mouthed.</center>
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<center></center>
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<center>Fishing for crabs.</center>
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<center>Success!</center>
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<center>You needed to catch a few so that you could make them race one another.</center>
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<center>Harbor food.</center>
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<center>Adventurous slide!</center>
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<center>Legoland again. This time less crowded and with our friends Thomas and Stine from Hamburg.</center>
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<center>Stine and Thomas.</center>
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<center>Leonie and Lukas.</center>
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<center><a href="https://www.faengslet.dk/en/" target="_blank">Horsens prison museum</a>. Luckily we didn't have to stay ;-P</center>
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<center>Exploring the old harbor area.</center>
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<center>Yoga time.</center>
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<center>Thomas brought some board games and Leonie was all over them. We had to play multiple sessions a day, whether we wanted to or not.</center>
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<center>The weather wasn't always great...</center>
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<center>...but we still went exploring.</center>
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<center><a href="https://www.visitvejle.com/vejle/plan-your-holidays/jelling-viking-town-and-world-heritage-gdk608047" target="_blank">Jelling viking museum and village</a>.</center>
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<center>Game of Kubb in our yard.</center>
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<center>I placed a sun umbrella on the grass for a single day. Enough time for the ants to build an entire mound under it.</center>
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<center><a href="https://www.givskudzoo.dk/en" target="_blank">Givskud safari zoo</a>. One of the best we've been to.</center>
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<center>Tall (!) climbing structures on the playground.</center>
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<center>Apparently this kind of ice cream sugar overkill is a tradition in Denmark?</center>
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<center>The zoo had the largest and best dinosaur exhibit I've seen.</center>
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<center>The kids loved it.</center>
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<center>Driving right up to lions was also an unusual experience.</center>
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<center><a href="https://industrimuseet.dk/en/" target="_blank">Horsens museum of industry</a>. A lot of hands on experiments for the kids. And as an engineering geek I was pleasently surprised that they actually fired up all of their steam engines! An amazing and amazingly noisy exhibit. Loved it.</center>
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<center>One just has to appreciate the steam punk aesthetic.</center>
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<center>Anita and the kids.</center>
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<center>Some hygge time.</center>
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<center>This image has special significance. If you squint, you can see that I accidentally captured the exact moment the wind blew Leonie's baseball cap into the water. By the time I had undressed and reached the end of the pier I had to swim quite a distance to retrieve it. Cold! With a long hike back home.</center>
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<center><a href="https://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/" target="_blank">Hamburg Miniatur Wunderland</a>.</center>
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<center>This thing is amazing. The hobby of two random dudes turned into a major attraction for Germany's second biggest city. Not quite the Eiffel tower, but also not too far off.</center>
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<center>The attention to detail and craftmanship that went into this thing is mind blowing.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com1Denmark56.26392 9.50178527.953686163821153 -25.654465000000002 84.574153836178851 44.658035tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-48956966846703483502023-07-16T09:14:00.141+02:002023-09-03T10:05:32.948+02:00Gumenplatte (2020m), via "Jermy & Melinda", 200m, 5c+<p>We've spent the past weekend as a family escaping the brutal heat to beautiful lake Klöntal. Swimming and camping directly on the shore. The lake has historically been used for mining ice (!) to provide ice to rich Zürich in summer. This was big business, <a href="https://www.srf.ch/news/ein-zeitzeuge-berichtet-natureis-statt-gefrierschrank" target="_blank">at times involving up to 300 horses</a>. Of course the reason this worked so well is that the lake is sheltered by a massive 2000m North face and spends a large portion of the day in the shade. On top of that, it is surrounded by caves which allow cool storage of blocks of ice till deep into the summer months. Of course a North face like that is also appealing to me as a climber. This particular one is a serious undertaking with all the alpine challenges one may imagine: no fixed protection, difficult route finding, risky approach, no opportunity to bail, loose rock, loooong. Too much to take on in my current shape without further preparation. But I figured I could at least scout out the area und get to know the local rock a bit better. So I recruited Mark for the next weekend to climb the Gumenplatte, a 200m face opposite the majestic North wall.</p>
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<center>Looking back at lake Klöntal. Even this official trail is steep and barely visible.</center>
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<center>Bushwhacking.</center>
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<center>It doesn't look like much from this angle, but it was frequently chest high.</center>
<p>The climb is rarely visited and scarcely mentioned anywhere. Despite the face looking very nice at a distance, prompting memories of the similar looking Brüggler limestone, it would turn out to be quite different in character. It started with the approach. There's a proper trail up to a scattering of alpine huts. But then it continues pathless and requires some serious bushwhacking to even make it to the rock. This cost a lot of effort and got us soaking wet in the underbrush. The entire day felt like a steam sauna. It was overcast, so we didn't get the scorching sun of previous days, but the temperatures were still high and it must have been 100% humidity. We were running with sweat and water. To escape the vegetation I switched to following the dry rocky bed of a creek. This meant some scrambling and even short climbing sections, but overall it still seemed like the better trade-off to us.</p>
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<center>Following the dry creek bed to avoid wet and slippery and annoying vegetation.</center>
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<center></center>
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<center>Crumbling slabs.</center>
<p>We found the start of the climb straight away, without any detours or getting lost. This is a small miracle, considering Mark and I <i>always</i> get lost. And indeed, we would make up for it later on the way down when we'd miss a turn and walk a few kilometers extra ;-P The rock turned out to be crumbling and rotten from the very start. It took me a few false starts before I got used to the idea of trusting it and led the first pitch. It's a very dynamic route in the sense that by climbing it, you are changing it. Lots of hand and footholds would just crumble away. The anchors are bolted well, but pitches frequently feature only three to four bolts. This means you want to place some mobile protection as back-up. Not easy to find trustworthy placements in rock like this.</p>
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<center>Into the cloud he went.</center>
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<center></center>
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<center>Mark topping out.</center>
<p>The crux section for us was a short traverse on a smooth slab of rock. Mark tried it for a while and then cheated by pulling on a quickdraw. Being the follower on top-rope, I felt more daring and attempted a dynamic move, reaching my destination hold with a bit of momentum. Too much momentum for this rock. It simply broke off completely and I took a fall with the piece of rock still in my grip. No damage done (except to the wall). Not sure if the character of that move used to be different when the route was first climbed, but it seemed very tricky to climb this cleanly in its current state.</p>
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<center>Smashed canteen with no content.</center>
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<center>Family photo.</center>
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<center>Chilling.</center>
<p>Befitting for the character of the route, the canteen that was meant to hold the route book, was smashed open and deformed by rockfall and the route book was nowhere to be seen. Disappointing really, as this is one of the few routes where I would have been very curious about how many people climbed it and who the most recent party before us would had been. Ah well.</p>
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<center>Mark admiring the views into the Linth valley.</center>
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<center>Domesticated...</center>
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<center>...and wild animals.</center>
<p>We topped out on a beautiful flowery meadow and enjoyed a lunch break with dramatic views through the drifting low hanging clouds. Then we went for the long knee breaking descent. In the end, it turned out to be more of a hiking than a climbing day, but that's also nice ;-) Due to the clouds I got to do less peeking at the North wall than I hoped for. But either way, it was obvious that I need way more endurance and practice in foul rock before even trying to set out on such a big mission. Another day!</p>
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<center>Beautiful trail through the forest.</center>
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<center>The Löntsch. With some deeply cut canyons and nice views.</center>
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<center>We had the entire wall to ourselves. It's probably not a good idea to climb this with multiple parties...</center>
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<center>A long roundtrip. First go straight up, then take an enormous detour on the way down ;-) Lukily that only added distance, not elevation gain, so in the end it might have been an accidental, but still preferable, choice.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com2Klöntalersee, 8750 Glarus, Switzerland47.0224341 8.959669918.712200263821153 -26.1965801 75.332667936178836 44.1159199tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-40463765163727143782023-07-01T19:33:00.169+02:002023-07-21T10:33:50.359+02:00Bergseeschijen (2820m), via "Südgrat", 270m, 5a+<p>After Torsten and I <a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2023/06/a-week-of-garden-work-with-my-brother.html">worked our butts off for a week in the garden</a>, it was finally time for some relaxation. No better way to relax sore muscles than to spend a day climbing a long multi pitch route in the mountains! Right?</p>
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<center>Distributing the gear before setting off.</center>
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<center>Clouds parting.</center>
<p>For my brother this would only be the second multi-pitch (or really outdoor) climb of his life. The <a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2019/04/climbing-bruggler-szigertraumli-5c.html">first one</a> (<a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2013/06/climbing-bruggler-hiking-speer-1950m.html">and a half</a>) were on Brüggler. So we recruited Arne as a reliable and experienced partner. This allowed us to climb in a party of three and have all safety relevant tasks handled between Arne and me, guiding my brother up as a tourist.</p>
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<center>Crowds at the base.</center>
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<center>Torsten, getting used to the idea of trusting the harness / rope / knots / anchor / us.</center>
<p>The entire week had been scorching hot but now there were thunderstorms in the forecast. They were predicted only in the afternoon and we gambled on having a sufficiently long time window to make it before they'd roll in. As an additional complication it was raining in the morning. Not ideal conditions. </p>
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<center>Like a pro.</center>
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<center>Cruising up the wall.</center>
<p>We arrived at the Göscheneralp parking lot at 9 in the morning and at the base of the wall two hours later. It's a strenuously long approach that was somewhat more comfortable this time around because at least we weren't blasted by the sun. Given the uncertain weather conditions we were surprised to find a queue of people at the base of the climb. We had to wait for two other parties before we could finally start. Luckily for us, the first party was with a professional mountain guide and thus made quick progress. Unfortunately the party after them made up for that by being extra slow. </p>
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<center>Titanic Arne: "Draw me like one of your French girls!" 🤣</center>
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<center>Torsten on top of the world.</center>
<p>Arne led the first two pitches, then I took over. Even with us waiting at the anchors and during the pitches, we quickly caught up with the Italian couple in front of us. They were nice enough to let us pass. We embarrassed ourselves by making a proper mess of our ropes at the shared anchor and wasted a ton of time untangling everything. Worse, when Torsten and Arne wanted to disassemble our anchor to start after me, they couldn't open the screwgate carabiner. They tried for a while and then decided to abandon both the carabiner and the attached sling. To add insult to injury, the Italian party caught up to us at the next anchor and the woman presented both biner and sling with a smile. Apparently she had easily loosened it ;-o</p>
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<center>Sören on lead.</center>
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<center>Torsten on the ridge.</center>
<p>I stayed in the lead for the entirety of the remaining eight pitches of the route. This avoided further rope management issues and also allowed me to lead the final pitches that are shared with the "<a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2023/06/bergseeschijen-2820m-via-esther-270m-6a.html">via Esther</a>" route that I climbed the week prior but only got to follow that time. This suited me just fine as I thought the pitches along the ridge were really the highlight of the entire route. Steep, with a lot of exposure, but never really hard and a joy to climb. As an additional bonus, they are only sparsely bolted and require placing your own gear. By the time we topped out, we had put several pitches of distance between us and the Italians.</p>
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<center>Final few meters.</center>
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<center>Summit!</center>
<p>We enjoyed a generous "z’Vieri" at the summit cross. This is a running gag between my brother and me. While I prefer to go extremely light on food during an outing and often don't eat anything at all during a big day, he requires a constant supply of calories at all times. So whenever we do anything together, he'll pack an extra big lunch packet and snacks.</p>
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<center>View from the top.</center>
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<center>Contemplating the descent route.</center>
<p>Chapeau to Torsten for handling himself extremely well! And big thanks to Arne for making the trip possible in the first place! This was a great day out and a memorable experience for my sailing brother from the flat country ;-P</p>
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<center>Blocky terrain on the summit ridge.</center>
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<center>Some via ferrata style sections on the descent trail.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Bergseeschijen, 6487 Göschenen, Switzerland46.6636995 8.485755218.353465663821154 -26.6704948 74.973933336178845 43.6420052tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-40073334378147702192023-06-26T14:26:00.133+02:002023-07-15T15:27:48.279+02:00A week of garden work with my brother<p>My brother Torsten and I made a deal: he'd drive down from Cologne to help me for a week of garden work. In exchange I'd invite him for a week of skiing in winter. Last week of June he delivered on his part of the deal and the two of us worked our butts off hauling literally tons of gravel, dirt and granite around. To wrap up the week and "relax" our sore muscles, we went on a long multi-pitch climb - only the second ever for Torsten. But that's another post ;-P</p>
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<center>Preparing the garden shack to be painted. I had already sanded it down a while ago, but then the weather was never dry enough to paint it.</center>
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<center>Lukas "helping". Unfortunately this entire coat of paint was a waste and we had to redo it completely. The store sold us some weird hybrid paint that didn't cover anything at all. When we went back to get the correct paint, the clerk was shaking his head at whatever his colleague must have been thinking.</center>
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<center>Warmup exercise.</center>
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<center>Our kids and a neighbor kid sorting gravel in the backyard. We are about to redo this flight of stairs completely and re-use the gravel in front of the house.</center>
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<center>Cooling down under the sprinkler.</center>
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<center>The professionals arrive. We had some blocks of granite of a few hundred kilograms each to move. Not to mention carting off all the left over gravel that we didn't manage to disappear into various nooks and crannies around the house.</center>
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<center>The gardener was super proud of this particular crane construction. Apparently it's unique and made to specification just for him. Super useful to. Long range and maneuverability allows them to work in a garden directly from the road without destroying anything. And he pointed out that it was a great recruiting tool - potential employees see the toy, understand it might save their backs - and sign up.</center>
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<center>Puzzling in the granite blocks.</center>
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<center>Torsten assessing the result of our efforts.</center>
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<center>Meanwhile painting progresses in front of the house. And we're digging out the old grass to fill it up with good topsoil instead of the existing construction waste.</center>
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<center>Soo much dirt to move...</center>
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<center>Lukas and Leonie getting ready to sleep outside. In the end only Leonie dared to actually stay. But she ended up sleeping there for two nights in a row and only stopped because there was a thunderstorm coming.</center>
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<center>Reading the bedtime story. Not a bad view to fall asleep to.</center>
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<center>Torsten hijacking the gardener's truck.</center>
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<center>Subtle, but important: we filled in two full truckloads of topsoil, raising the level of the grass almost to the entrance way. We also transplanted some of the surviving good patches of grass into a new location.</center>
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<center>Recycling the pebbles from the old backyard steps. The steps in this picture used to have very sharp gravel that was painful to walk barefoot and spread everywhere.</center>
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<center>Sorting the available granite slabs. Another recycling project: they used to be placed in strategic locations in the grass for the dog. But we don't have a dog...</center>
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<center>Getting out the heavy duty gear. Rental property of the hardware store, so we had to finish in time for the day's thunderstorm. A bit of a rush.</center>
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<center>The muscle cement mixer.</center>
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<center>Removing a row of slabs that started sagging down the slope. Propping up the remaining ones with a barrier, making more room for the plants and stabilizing the gravel.</center>
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<center>While Torsten and I had dedicated a week of "vacation" to this work, Anita had her regular work and could only help occasionally. She cut the plants and kept everyone well fed and hydrated ;-P</center>
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<center>First step is in!</center>
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<center>Just poured the cement for the second step. In brutal heat.</center>
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<center>Measuring the third and final one.</center>
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<center>Torsten with his professional pants. I'd envy him for the kneepads on many an occasion.</center>
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<center>Slowly approaching final form.</center>
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<center>Leonie and Lukas playing dress up.</center>
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<center>Not too bad if I may say so myself.</center>
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<center>When it's hot like this you hide away in the underground parking garage to practice cycling...</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com08135 Langnau am Albis, Switzerland47.28812 8.5378318.977886163821154 -26.61842 75.598353836178845 43.69408tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-66283024669609772162023-06-25T18:20:00.133+02:002023-07-04T19:27:55.184+02:00Bergseeschijen (2820m), via "Esther", 270m, 6a<p>A weekend with glorious weather. Due to a miscommunication (or my notorious absent-mindedness...) our guests from Germany continued on to Italy a day earlier than expected. My brother would only arrive later that night from Cologne. This left almost an entire day to go climbing! A bunch of my climbing friends were hanging out on the Göscheneralp campground with their families. A good opportunity to join up with them in the morning and climb the Bergseeschijen. </p>
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<center>Scrambling up to the start of the route.</center>
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<center>View towards the Göschenen valley.</center>
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<center>Luigi.</center>
<p>Luigi, Mark and I had <a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2022/06/bergseeschijen-via-direkte-westwand.html">already tried a route on the steep West face last year</a>. That ended in a retreat. Thus this time around I suggested a more modest route up the slabby South ridge: "via Esther".</p>
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<center>Tom in an exaggerated "climbing buttshot" position.</center>
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<center>Tom negotiating the crux section.</center>
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<center>Tom in action.</center>
<p>Luigi, Tom and I started from Göscheneralp at around 8 in the morning. Even this early in the day the sun on the steep shadeless approach was already brutal. It took us less than two hours to cover the roughly 800 meters of elevation gain and start climbing. We decided to lead in blocks so that each of us would get to lead three pitches. Tom started and thus got to enjoy the crux 6a. A traverse under a small roof that made it difficult to keep sufficient pressure on your feet on a blank slab. I got to lead the unexciting middle pitches and Luigi finally topped out via the spectacularly fun exit pitches. They are steep and exposed and only bolted at the anchors, requiring trad protection for the climb itself. </p>
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<center>An Italian party in one of the neighboring routes.</center>
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<center>Luigi coming up.</center>
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<center>One of my leads.</center>
<p>We topped out 3.5 hours after we started and walked off after a quick summit rest. The descent is a comfortable walk along the ridge followed by a via ferrata style scramble from the saddle. Then down the knee breaking trail from the morning. In the end it took us 7.5 hours car to car.</p>
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<center>We watched the Rega mountain rescue service carry two people out via the longline.</center>
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<center>Easy, but super fun terrain.</center>
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<center>Tom and Luigi with a scenic backdrop.</center>
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<center>Luigi on the sharp end.</center>
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<center>Tom.</center>
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<center>Mighty Salbit West ridge. >30 pitches of up to 6b+. Next year maybe?</center>
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<center>Luigi on the fantastic exit pitches.</center>
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<center>Topping out.</center>
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<center>Summit!</center>
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<center>Luigi pointing out important things, I'm sure.</center>
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<center>Tom scrambling down the descent.</center>
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<center>The SAC Bergsee hut.</center>
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<center>Hard to imagine that coming down from the saddle is a walking trail (albeit protected by metal cables).</center>
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<center>We were accompanied by a bunch of annoying goats for the last half hour on the trail.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com2Bergseeschijen, 6487 Göschenen, Switzerland46.6636995 8.485755218.353465663821154 -26.6704948 74.973933336178845 43.6420052tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-72166953991025572032023-06-04T17:22:00.100+02:002023-06-24T17:55:20.034+02:00Vaferdeau/Rochers du Midi, via "Joe Brown", 100m, 6a<p>With a somewhat uncertain weather forecast in the high mountains Arne and I were looking for options in the Northern canton of Jura. The cliffs are shorter there and the climbing less committing, affording us the option to bail should the thunderstorms catch up with us. Neither one of us had been to the area before. Turns out that it is a popular crag and secluded parking spot for wild camping. Consequently there were already a bunch of people there when we showed up. The limestone wall is mostly hidden behind trees. It offers dozens of routes, most of which are hard overhanging sports routes. People set up camp at the base, including a barbeque fire, a camping stove for coffee, their dogs and folding chairs. Then work on their projects all day long. Chill atmosphere but not our preferred style of climbing. We enjoy longer routes in more reasonable difficulty grades more. And then climb them cleanly on-sight rather then puzzling them out move by move.</p>
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<center>Cool single lane road on the way in.</center>
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<center>Awesome tree (?) snaking up the overhanging wall.</center>
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<center>Arne admiring some of the harder routes.</center>
<p>We have some difficulty finding the start of our route and walk back and forth along the base of the wall, trying to decipher old faded route labels and match our topo to the features of the rock. In the end, it turned out that a chalked "X" on the rock, that we found in the very beginning, did indeed mark our route. Bad luck, because by the time we decide that that must be it, another party of two women starts up before us. So we queue and wait. Usually an "X" is used as a warning that there's something wrong with a route, like loose rock or broken anchors. This time it really just seemed to mark the spot ;-/</p>
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<center>Me leading the first pitch. Should have stretched before attempting such moves!</center>
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<center>Breaching the tree tops.</center>
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<center>Arne coming up through a nice dihedral.</center>
<p>When we finally start climbing, it turns out that we are much faster and more comfortable than the party in front of us. I quickly catch up to them and set up an improvised anchor next to them. The route is well bolted already, but they spend a lot of time placing additional gear and slowly inch their way upwards. When we share a big comfortable anchor about halfway up, they graciously let us pass. Arne and I top out quickly afterwards. We enjoy the nice vistas from the top and congratulate ourselves for our choice of route and location as we watch menacingly dark clouds roll in and the first sounds of thunder roll over the valley.</p>
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<center>Pumpy layback moves near the top.</center>
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<center>Hanging out high over the valley.</center>
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<center>The final pitch was pure plaisir climbing. Easy, but super nice.</center>
<p>A quicky but goody ;-) I can totally see myself come back to this crag on a hot summer day to try some of the harder single pitches. It really is a nice area to hang out.</p>
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<center>Yeah!</center>
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<center>Sören and Arne.</center>
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<center>A snake on the trail back.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Rocher du Midi, 1660 Château-d'Oex, Switzerland46.4438255 7.153286118.133591663821157 -28.0029639 74.754059336178841 42.3095361tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-32198063152053320812023-05-29T19:17:00.149+02:002023-06-21T22:23:21.894+02:00Üschenen, via "Diagonale", 220m, 6a, 1p.a.<p>Third day of continuous climbing action. Third day where I left the house before 7am and only got back late at night. It was starting to take a toll on me so I asked my climbing partner of the day, Arne, for a plaisir route. He suggested the "Diagonale", which he had climbed in the past. Nominally a 6b, but the crux is a single hard move that most people climb by stepping on a bolt.</p>
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<center>View up the Üschenen valley.</center>
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<center>Our parking spot at the restaurant. Accessed via an exciting gravel road.</center>
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<center>Arne pointing out the massive roof we'll have to navigate somehow.</center>
<p>This required a drive via Bern for a total time of roughly 2.5 hours. Just as well, as Arne and I hadn't talked in a long time and enjoyed the opportunity to catch up without distractions. As it turns out I wasn't the only one who was a little bit tired. Just the prior weekend Arne had completed a 600 km (!) bike ride interrupted by only three hours of sleep. He's training for some even longer self-flagellation tour. "Quäl dich du Sau!". I have done long bike rides in my day, but 600km in one go is something else. Chapeau!</p>
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<center>First pitch. Steep, but extremely friendly and fun to climb.</center>
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<center></center>
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<center>Chickenheads. A relief to finally reach them on the blank slab.</center>
<p>To make up for the long drive, getting to the rock itself only required a short stroll up a cow pasture. And what a rock it is! A hugely overhanging wall that makes you wonder how there could be any climbable line through it, let alone a 6a. Embedded in beautiful alpine surroundings with views towards lake Oeschinen, commonly regarded the <a href="https://fullsuitcase.com/oeschinen-lake-hike/" target="_blank">most picturesque</a> of Switzerland's smaller lakes. Off to a promising start!</p>
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<center>Hello!</center>
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<center>Arne coming up.</center>
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<center>Look at that piece of rope! Imagine hanging in that position. A privilege reserved for hard movers, not us...</center>
<p>I got to lead the first pitch. Graded a 5c+ it felt much easier. Steep, even occasionally mildly overhanging, but with big friendly jugs to pull on. A great confidence builder for the start! But as it turned out, the following slabby pitches, while nominally easier, proved far more challenging and mentally taxing. Arne was sufficiently intimidated by his memory of one of the pitches that we swapped leads so I got to do that one. Which of course also meant that he got to lead the king pitch: the overhanging 6a sneaking out from under the massive roof. Athletic big bold moves. Super satisfying and fun. Framed by a curtain of glittering water droplets flying off the lip of the cave like so many pearls on a string.</p>
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<center>A bunch of 3000ers.</center>
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<center>Arne in the steep 6a.</center>
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<center>Some athletic moves. The crux sequence is quite pumpy with hard pulls and high feet. Luckily on good holds.</center>
<p>Once out of the cave comes the route's namesake traverse pitch. Not exciting in terms of climbing difficulties (it's a 4c), but with dramatic exposure and great views. The final pitch contains the 6b boulder move. Starting from a comfortable plateau that you can walk around on, one needs to gain a small ledge. The problem is that the wall below the ledge is overhanging with nothing for your feet (and hard to see to begin with). I puzzled around on it and tried several variations before finally giving up and using the bolt as a foothold. Arne remembered the move from the first time he climbed this route, so he knew what to do. But in the end he also had to admit defeat and use the bolt for aid. A tiny blemish on an otherwise clean ascent for the both of us.</p>
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<center>Me demonstrating a hands free rest even in a steep wall ;-)</center>
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<center>Hanging out. Lake Oeschinen in the background.</center>
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<center>Arne in the traverse pitch.</center>
<p>We topped out on a wide plateau and walked for some hundred meters or so to reach the top of another climbing area where a lot of easier routes converge. Another party was getting ready to rappel so we offered to share ropes. We made it down in only a handful of quick maneuvers. A great finale for a great weekend!</p>
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<center>Sören and Arne.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-53029369056271711622023-05-28T11:20:00.086+02:002023-06-16T11:55:50.235+02:00Mittagflue, "Südkante", ~300m, 5b<p>Day two of my long weekend without kids and wife. This time, Björn and I took Lode out for his first alpine multi-pitch climb. He graciously agreed to write about the experience from his point of view:</p>
<i><p>I had only a very small amount of climbing experience from the climbing gym a few weeks before, and a few climbs in the Ardennes in Belgium long ago but those were much smaller than today.</p>
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<center>Lode and Björn on the approach</center>
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<center>Mittagflue looming large.</center>
<i><p>First we had a hike from the parking near Guttannen to the rock face, which took less than an hour. The rock face looked very impressive, from a distance but especially close by. We could already see some climbers on the rock from a distance.</p>
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<center>Lode at the base of the wall.</center>
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<center>Off to a good start!</center>
<i><p>The climb itself went well but this was thanks to help and encouragement from my companions. They were also the ones lead-climbing and following me, with me in the center, so I didn't need to handle the safety critical things and collection of gear, just try to climb up with my legs and arms. It's amazing how fast time flew by, since it took over 4 hours to climb up the entire rock but it felt much faster, likely because there were around 10 pitches, subdividing time into 10 individual goals to reach. Each pitch had difficulty levels ranging from 3c to 5a, with most around 4b. These are considered easy by experienced climbers, but definitely not for me. Each pitch was around 30 meters and ended with a small ledge that in several cases barely allowed taking off your backpack to take a sip of water. Standing with your feet and hanging off the rope was the better method to "comfortably" hang out on these ledges but I was not very comfortable with that yet initially.</p>
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<center></center>
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<center>Good mood at the anchor.</center>
<i><p>On most pitches, I succeeded in climbing up, on the harder ones I needed a lot of help and encouragement related to where to put my hands and feet. Björn gave the advice to feel with your hands as you don't always see the ledges, and Sören said at one point, when I thought I wouldn't be able to use my foot on a diagonal piece of wall, that the force would point in the correct direction when actually moving there, and I felt that indeed it worked! On the very last pitch, however, I wasn't able to find any place for my feet even with help. I instead got offered to use Björns rope to pull myself up from - which succeeded in the end, and allowed me to reach the summit! I regret not making that part on my own, but should try similar conditions on a much lower pitch instead to practice this.</p>
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<center>Lode</center>
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<center>Björn</center>
<i><p>The weather today was very sunny given what the year was like so far, however there were some small drizzles of rain happening at regular intervals during the day, never big enough to be considered an issue, fortunately it never required us to turn back early.</p>
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<center></center>
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<center>Sören</center>
<i><p>To get back down, there were two options: rappel down the way we came, with as only minor issues that some groups of climbers were still climbing up below us and the ropes were 50m which was just too short to allow comfortably going down 2 pitches at once. Or, hike by going to the nearby waterfall, and rappelling down 3-4 pitches there.</p>
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<center>The village of Guttannen. Framed by the steep walls of the Abadia (7a) route through the West face.</center>
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<center>Final approach.</center>
<i><p>Sören had earlier experience with this hike down with spring snow and described it as "<a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2020/05/climbing-mittagflue-sudkante-variant.html" target="_blank">slippery scrambling with immense exposure</a>". Originally the plan was to rappel. However, today we noticed most climbing groups in front of us took this route (or, at least, we did not see them rappelling down), so we decided to take it again as well.</p>
</i>
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<center>Summit!</center>
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<center>A last bit of scrambling to reach the descent trail.</center>
<i><p>To start off we had to ascend a bit more with ropes, but with regular hiking shoes though which makes a big difference. Then was a relatively normal trail, just with some rocks or trees blocking it every now and then, but this trail was the easiest part of the whole way down. After a small detour due to reaching an unmarked dead end, we started descending. This was really scary since a lot of the descent was not actually a hiking trail, but rocks to climb down from bare, sometimes even requiring experienced climber manoeuvres for placing hands and feet similar to the climb up, except this time without equipment. I got a lot of help and advice from Sören and Björn for this. There were at least a dozen of such sections of around 10 metres high to be conquered on different parts of the way back, as well as longer sections that were less extreme but still required use of both hands and feet to get down, and one section where we had the choice to rappel (and did).</p>
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<center>Not a good idea to fall here...</center>
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<center>Scrambling down wet rock.</center>
<i><p>In the end we reached the beginning of the final 4 rappels, with a very awkward ledge to start the first one. This went pretty well and much faster than hiking and climbing! However this also had its challenges: I was not used to rappelling on this type of rock wall (but more vertical walls), which had quite a few diagonally angled parts. At one point I was avoiding bushes on the right side, which made me climb on such a diagonal part to the left, which eventually caused me to swing freely with the rope towards the right, smashing me against a rock right next to those bushes. This was quite an important lesson on keeping your legs spread wide open while climbing down, and keeping an eye on the shape of the wall and the rope direction.</p>
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<center>More descent.</center>
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<center>Rappelling next to a waterfall.</center>
<i><p>Overall the climb down took longer than up! Sören mentioned the theory of type I and type II fun. Type 1 is just direct fun, type 2 is when the moment itself can be miserable, but is fun in retrospect. This event definitely was more on the type II end of the scale, but the enjoyment as soon as hitting the bottom ground, and the food afterwards, were the most fun and rewarding I had in a long time!</p>
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<center>Well deserved ;-P</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-30033939279128469992023-05-27T19:47:00.121+02:002023-06-03T10:05:45.382+02:00Läged Windgällen, "Zentralpfeiler", 300m, 6a<p>Anita and the kids were travelling to see her parents in Germany. This left me with a long weekend on my own. Not only that, but a long weekend with a great weather forecast. It was ON! For Saturday I recruited Luigi to head for the Klausenpass and climb the Läged Windgällen via the central pillar. Fairly sustained 10 pitches of up to 6a difficulty. The approach looked conveniently close from the pass road, but in the end we still spent quite some time on it. There's only the faintest of trails leading up to the wall, so we spent quite some time scrambling up pathless steep terrain.</p>
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<center>Convenient approach on a side road of the Klausenpass. We walked, but you can also pay to drive this restricted access road.</center>
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<center>I'm frequently amazed by old infrastructure like this natural stone wall. Someone manually collected all the rock to create and fence a meadow. So much effort.</center>
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<center>Steep scree on the final few meters to the wall. Our objective is the central pillar in this image.</center>
<p>Once we started climbing we quickly realized that this was graded according to old school burly mountaineer's standards. Not only that, but it also seemed somewhat inconsistent - sometimes a 5c felt easier than a 5a and the 5a (usually well within our comfort zone) would make us swear. Two thirds of the way up there is a bit of an interlude where you have to traverse an easy pitch from the pillar to the main wall. This was only made memorable because there was still snow in the depressions that we awkwardly tried to avoid in order to keep our climbing shoes dry. </p>
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<center>Luigi looking over to Clariden, trying to count how many people are still going ski touring at the end of May.</center>
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<center>Sören on the sharp end.</center>
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<center>Luigi on the sharp end.</center>
<p>According to the route book we are only the second party this year to complete this route. The book dates back all the way to the early nineties and it seems that most years only see a handful of ascents. Past the route book we still had two more pitches to go - the crux 6a and a bonus 4a scramble to top out. It was actually quite a amazing that there was any line at all to the top. On the left, a massive and massively overhanging cave that was running with water. Completely impassable. To the right, a series of smooth roofs. Also completely out of the question for us. But between them runs a slightly overhanging crack. This is where the route snuck through. Very athletic and satisfying moves. I always appreciate routes that follow the logically weak line up a face the most. Contrast this to many modern routes that artificially seek out difficult sections in order to ramp up the grade of the climb. Feels forced.</p>
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<center>Growing exposure.</center>
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<center>Beautiful pitch high above the deck.</center>
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<center>Lots of air under my butt.</center>
<p>Two rappels from the top bring us to a ledge that we walked into a different route from where we climbed up. This is harder (I think 7a?) and thus correspondingly steeper. This makes for a comfortable and smooth rappel experience. Walking back to the car we pass a small alm and a single hut. This was deserted on the way up, but now there was a group of 10 very drunk and very loud women singing on the terrasse. Celebrating a bachelorette party they sent the bride to be to us with shots. She apparently had to share a certain number of drinks with random men and they were starved for men up here. We happily obliged ;-P That's how to end a climb in style: have a bunch of women sing "You are cool guys! You are cool guys! Shalalala!" after you. </p>
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<center>We had to walk this exposed ledge to get to the rappel route. Not particularly difficult, but high consequence if you do fall...</center>
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<center>Me working up the crux pitch. Hard to tell, but this required a bouldering move to leave a small cave at the anchor. Then a ton of slightly overhanging layback moves.</center>
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<center>Summit!</center>
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<center>Yeti out of the fog.</center>
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<center>Setting up the rappels.</center>
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<center>Nice rappel anchor. A single pillar of rock to stand on with steep (sometimes overhanging) walls around me.</center>
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<center>The free hanging rope gives an idea of how steep the wall is.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Läged Windgällen, 6436 Unterschächen, Switzerland46.883624 8.80022522.807119168746535 -26.356025000000002 70.960128831253456 43.956475tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-68970828278149004002023-05-06T18:01:00.202+02:002023-05-18T15:02:11.313+02:00Teufelstalwand, "Zeichen der Freundschaft", 250m, 6b+<p>We are experiencing an unusually cold and wet May in Switzerland. Luigi and I were still itching to go climbing. So we took our chances on Saturday. Driving up to Andermatt in the morning it didn't look good at first - the road was thoroughly wet. We could catch some glimpses into the "devil's canyon", our chosen climbing area, from the road, and the South facing wall looked mostly dry. Thus we figured we should at least try the approach and see how it goes.</p>
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<center>Luigi on the approach. High above Andermatt.</center>
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<center>Admiring the wall. Extending both lower into the canyon and higher than the photo frame.</center>
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<center>Rappelling into the canyon.</center>
<p>Lauren and Andrei had started a bit earlier than us. This turned out to be good for us - we found where they parked their car and could take advantage of their footsteps through patches of snow on the approach. Thanks for breaking trail! ;-P The approach was actually a bit dicey at times. Slippery wet snow and brush on steep slopes over deep vertical drops. Unforgiving terrain. The last bit requires three rappels into the canyon itself. It's quite a peculiar setup, leading to a very committing climb: the canyon has been carved by a wild creek which enters and leaves via steep waterfalls. Both sides of the canyon are near vertical, requiring climbing to get out of. So once you've rappelled down to the creek you have to successfully climb <i>something</i> to get back out...</p>
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<center>This is <i>before</i> we started climbing. These fixed ropes are still part of the approach.</center>
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<center>Oooh yeah. The sun is out and we're in t-shirts!</center>
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<center>Fantastic climbing.</center>
<p>Luigi and I had set our eyes on "Zeichen der Freundschaft". Eight pitches of 6a - 6b+. Quite sustained and definitely at the upper end of what I'm currently able to climb without sufficient training. But it's one of the easiest (the easiest?) routes on this wall and comes with high praise and a recommendation in the "Dreams of Switzerland" selection guidebook. Lauren and Andrei had originally set their eyes on something more ambitious but in the end we found them two pitches up in our route. Their original objective was prohibitively wet.</p>
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<center>Probably my favorite pitch of the entire route: a beautiful 6a+ layback corner crack.</center>
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<center>Cracks. Cracks everywhere.</center>
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<center>Flaky cracks are still cracks.</center>
<p>The guidebook isn't lying: it turned out to be an amazing climb. Bomber granite. Beautiful structure. Dramatic scenery. Very well cleaned and protected. In fact, at times it felt like they might have overdone it a bit and put in too many bolts. The rock features lots of natural cracks that would have allowed protecting large parts of the climb with mobile gear. It was also a nice demonstration for how gym climbing insufficiently prepares you for climbing outside. The most common features on this climb are rarely found in gyms: entire pitches of layback corner cracks; cracks running straight up a slab and a wide chimney. All structures that are difficult and expensive to simulate on artificial rock and require very specific techniques. I like this style of athletic climbing, but at the same time I'm struggling with it. My crippled right hand and left ankle mean I have a difficult time jamming my limbs into the cracks at the required angles. And I tend to get a ton of abrasions because my scar tissue means I don't necessarily feel when I'm hurting myself. Thus we agreed to share the leads in a way that had Luigi lead the harder 6bs and me the easier 6a's. Worked out well until we arrived at the final crux 6b+ pitch. It was clear from the base of it that it was running wet with water and would be exceedingly difficult to climb in these conditions. Thus we unfortunately had to make the call to skip this one and go around it via an improvised pitch on easier and drier terrain. Good reason to come back and finish the route properly ;-)</p>
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<center>This little guy followed us for a full three pitches. Notice how it's missing half a wing.</center>
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<center>Luigi coming up.</center>
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<center>Luigi "enjoying" a wide chimney. His favorite style of climbing - not 😈</center>
<p>We never caught up with Lauren and Andrei, but we did get to talk to the only other party in the canyon that day. A pair of climbers on <a href="https://mdettling.blogspot.com/2018/10/teufelstalwand-wilde-13-7b.html" target="_blank">"Wilde 13"</a>, a tough 7b. They climbed using a bigwall technique - instead of encumbering themselves with backpacks like we did, they carried up a haul line and dragged a big bag up behind them whenever the lead finished a pitch. Good idea! We enjoyed a lunch break in the sun at the top before starting the "descent". As it turns out that starts by scrambling <i>up</i> a few more pitches on fixed ropes before going down over a jumble of big rocks and traversing annyoingly snow covered slopes. When we got home we were greeted by Bruno and Ramona who came over for dinner. We sat on the terrace with good friends and celebrated a great day out with cold beers. What more could one ask for?</p>
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<center></center>
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<center>The final pitch. Unfortunately the streaks of water just under the most difficult part under the roof mean that we had to shy away from this one.</center>
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<center>Luigi on our improvised alternative pitch.</center>
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<center>Top!</center>
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<center>Scrambling up the fixed ropes towards the descent.</center>
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<center>Mighty Salbit in the background. Lots of amazing climbs on those ridges.</center>
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<center>Scrambling through big blocks. You can see footsteps through the patches of snow on the opposite slope. That's the trail back.</center>
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<center>The "sock mobile". Luigi dried his soaking wet socks by having them wave out our window.</center>
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<center>Looking back into the canyon from the road. We climbed on the left wall of the right one.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Andermatt, Switzerland46.6339116 8.593562718.323677763821152 -26.5626873 74.944145436178843 43.7498127tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-28324182440590970332023-04-06T08:59:00.087+02:002023-04-30T10:00:23.547+02:00Brüggler (1777m) via "Kleine Verschneidung", 200m, 5c<p>Mark contacted me to open the climbing season on Brüggler. It's a South facing wall at relatively low altitude, so while one must expect snow on the approach, it is reasonable to hope for the rock itself to be dry in early April. Mark wanted to introduce two colleagues to more multi-pitch climbing: Samuel and Carl. I had already <a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2022/07/hanibalturm-via-conquest-of-paradise-6a.html">climbed Hanibalturm with Samuel last year</a>, so we decided to pair up Samuel and me and Mark and Carl. It was a beautiful day, almost warm enough to climb in t-shirt despite snow on the approach and passing the occasional icicle on the wall ;-P Samuel and I had a good groove, alternating leads for all the eight pitches to the summit. This meant that each of us got to lead one of the 5c pitches. Challenging enough to be interesting, but never intimidating. Samuel practiced placing trad gear and delivered a "rock" solid performance. Hopefully we'll get to do some bigger missions soon!</p>
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<center>By now a very familiar approach for me. Brüggler coming into view.</center>
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<center>Good surface to walk on.</center>
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<center>What a great day!</center>
<p>We picked different routes for the two rope teams, which meant that we hardly caught a glimpse of one another all day. We only met up again back on the summit ridge. Carl and Mark traversed over to us and we started a joint rappel. While we initially hoped we might be able to walk off the mountain, there was still too much snow on the ridge and North face to make this a safe or comfortable option. Once we were walking down the steep grass again I proved that rappelling had been the right call by slipping in the mud and falling on my bum. The ground, frozen solid in the morning, had thawed into a treacherous slippery mud.</p>
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<center>Mark & Carl.</center>
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<center>The wall looming large.</center>
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<center>Samuel on the sharp end.</center>
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<center>Sööli Ridge.</center>
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<center>Our route followed natural weaknesses in the rock and would have gone entirely without fixed protection. So many cracks, hour glasses and pockets to place mobile gear.</center>
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<center>Good times at the anchor.</center>
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<center>Look at that glazed wall! Luckily we could climb around that section - otherwise it would have gotten "interesting".</center>
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<center>Extended lunch break. I had a super nice ledge with a view, sitting on a bolstered cushion of ropes.</center>
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<center>Coming up the final few meters.</center>
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<center>Summit ridge.</center>
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<center>First rappel.</center>
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<center>Carrying the other ropes to set up a rappel highway.</center>
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<center>Still quite a ways down.</center>
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<center>Mission accomplished.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Brüggler, 8752 Glarus Nord, Switzerland47.1175 8.9838318.807266163821154 -26.172420000000002 75.427733836178845 44.14008tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-90619910740826270722023-01-01T10:48:00.137+01:002023-04-23T11:35:59.800+02:00Winter 2022 / 2023<p>This winter season was a bit disappointing for us. For one thing the snow was late. For another, at almost no point were all four of us healthy at the same time. Someone always had a cold / cough / flu / whatever. Super annoying. We still had a few great days. We visited Anita's parents in Northern Germany for New Year's. Leonie learned ice skating on the local outdoor rink in Thalwil. The kids both practiced skiing in Oberiberg. I went sledging at Melchsee Frutt with my team from work. And we spent a great week in Austria in the <a href="https://www.kroeller.at/en/" target="_blank">family hotel Kröller</a>. Both kids attended ski lessons there and Leonie ended up making second place in the week's final race. She can do red runs now and has a total blast. A crucial step for us to go skiing together. Lukas made some progress as well, but he's still in kamikaze mode. Put him on skis and he'll cheerfully point them straight down the slope and go "whee!". He doesn't care about direction or breaking. Speed freak. I compressed entire days of skiing into the few hours that the kids had their lessons. Still managed to cover most of the resort and do about 10 vertical km a day.</p>
<p>Thus overall a good season in some ways, but terrible in others. My climbing completely fell by the wayside. Hardly made it to the gym at all, nevermind any real (ice) climbing. Hopefully 2023 will be better again in terms of health and fitness.</p>
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<center>Spontaneous walk up the Albis when Afroz visited. The weather was so nice that we had lunch on the terrace and then I left for the hike without even donning a jacket. It did get a bit chilly a few hours into it - still January after all ;-P</center>
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<center>Anita, Leonie, Lukas. Lukas didn't get the concept of ice skates at all. But he was totally into getting sped around the ice on the pratice chair thingies.</center>
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<center>Leonie on a Popo-Schlitten (saucer sled?). </center>
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<center>Lukas, a moment before going airborne.</center>
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<center>Playing in the snow is tiring!</center>
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<center>Łukasz, Andrej, Sören, Lucija. Not too shabby a spot for lunch.</center>
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<center>Lucija, Sören, Łukasz</center>
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<center>Lucija</center>
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<center>Łukasz outrunning some strangers</center>
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<center></center>
<center>Andrej brought his entire family along and the kids were doing well on the run too!</center>
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<center>Leonie and Lukas inspecting the ponies at the Kinderhotel.</center>
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<center>Getting acquainted with the snow on a breakneck speed sledge run.</center>
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<center>The family race is on! Leonie on my lap was shouting "Daddy! Super-Turbo-Rössli! Faster! They are closing in!"</center>
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<center>The hotel allowed us a few moments without kids every night - which we celebrated with cocktails.</center>
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<center>Lukas trying a snow bike.</center>
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<center>Ooooh yeah!</center>
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<center>Look at this sad white line through green meadows... The final section of the black run down to the valley. I peaked at ~90km/h ;-P</center>
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<center>Leonie got to ride one of the ponies. She's completely obsessed with horses at the moment, so this was a dream for her.</center>
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<center>Lukas and his ski teachers. The entire hotel and resort was overrun by Dutch people. This included the teachers who often spoke Dutch natively.</center>
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<center>Leonie skiing down in her group of ski kids.</center>
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<center>We got to do a few daughter / father runs as well.</center>
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<center>The entire family going up on the last day.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-26574669870233974652022-11-26T13:05:00.058+01:002022-12-16T13:25:00.876+01:00Dry-Tooling at Urnerboden<p>Winter is coming - and so is Luigi ;-P He's been anticipating the cold season for a while now. Spending a lot of time at the "pig farm", a private training gym, where he practices dry-tooling and ice climbing. There's not super-much ice just yet, so we headed to Urnerboden to check out the conditions and do some dry-tooling. We had the entire area to ourselves and practiced laps on a wet limestone wall. We tried routes up to M6+ according to the guide book. Luigi was my rope gun while I basically just flailed around on top-rope. My severe lack of training definitely shows. But then I have the additional excuse of climbing with dual frontpoints when you really only want a single crampon tip for the delicate balance and moves required on rock. Dry-tooling is weird in that regard. On the one hand it is utterly amazing how you can somehow stick even the tiniest depressions and protusions in the rock. On the other, you get very little advance warning before you come off. Shift your weight just a little in the wrong direction. Pull your tools ever so slightly outward. Pop. There he goes. For regular rock climbing you tend to have both more advance warning when your grip is losening and a more gradual failure curve instead of the sudden all or nothing of dry-tooling. Definitely something to get used to. It was a fun exercise, but I need more gym time before I can enjoy it properly.</p>
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<center>Ooooh, yes!</center>
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<center>Luigi on the sharp end.</center>
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<center>Love me some winter.</center>
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<center>The tools of the trade.</center>
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<center>Me picking my way up.</center>
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<center>Luigi trying some steep moves on top-rope.</center>
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<center>Last time I've been here this creek was frozen and snowed in. Now we actually had to ford it. Hurray to waterproof heavy winter boots ;-P</center>
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<center>The walls on the right are still running with water. Ice will hopefully come later.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Urnerboden, 8751 Spiringen, Switzerland46.88993 8.9009418.579696163821154 -26.25531 75.200163836178845 44.05719tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-65085891565771747152022-11-12T13:09:00.103+01:002022-12-07T19:42:11.252+01:00Ofen (2185m) via Spitzmuis, 140m, 6a<p>Arne had promised Tobi to climb at Melchsee Frutt on the "Ofen", "oven", wall for a long time. With only three more days to go, before access is forbidden to preserve wildlife in winter, we had to hurry. Luckily the weather forecast was good, so we teamed up as two parties: Arne and Tobi heading for a difficult 6b+, while Mark and I chose a more mellow 6a in the neighboring sector. As is our custom, Mark and I got lost on the approach. It takes about two hours of walking to reach the wall - we had all done this part before and this was in any case still the shared part for the four of us. But once under the towering wall, Tobi and Arne had to head around a buttress on the right while Mark and I were meant to go left. We started left but somehow ended up back on the same trail with the others. Just as well. We have a reputation to maintain after all ;-P</p>
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<center>On the approach. The left sector is called "Dach" (roof). Not difficult to imagine why ;-)</center>
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<center>Arne and Tobi getting ready. What a daring line straight up that looming wall.</center>
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<center>In t-shirt. At 2000m altitude. In November.</center>
<p>We fixed our mistake by traversing along the wall and found our route without too much trouble. The climbing turned out to be just the right difficulty - challenging enough to be interesting but not too hard to be intimidating. I was out of shape for lack of training while Mark had had another Covid booster just two days prior (and in fact ended up testing positive a few days later). We enjoyed cruising up the wall. Despite the fact that we were higher than fresh snow on the opposing North facing slopes we could climb in t-shirt all day. It seems the name oven for this South facing wall is well deserved indeed.</p>
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<center>Mark posing for the camera.</center>
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<center>Hanging around.</center>
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<center>Comfy belay ledge.</center>
<p>We topped out at 1:30 pm and started rappelling right away. Back down on the ground we went back to the start of the other route and were surprised to see Tobi and Arne still moving up. So we surfed down the steep scree and settled into a position that allowed us to spectate the climb. It got very chilly as soon as the sun sunk behind the ridge behind us. The others realized that they wouldn't finish in daylight and decided to bail two pitches short of the top. This means poor Arne will have to return a third time to finish off this particular route ;-P</p>
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<center>Tobi in the other route. Steep!</center>
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<center>Top! Mark demonstrating his rappel knot. "European death knot".</center>
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<center>Rappelling over a cave.</center>
<p>We hiked back to the car and drove to a burger place to meet up with Tobi's girlfriend and friend who spent the day paragliding nearby. They intended to sleep in their campervans in "the spot" that night.</p>
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<center>Scree surfing on the way down.</center>
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<center>Beautiful vistas on the hike out. That layer of haze in the valley is from a single big wood fire!</center>
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<center>Intense colors.</center>
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<center>Well deserved!</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Melchsee, 6068 Kerns, Switzerland46.7712004 8.271994318.460966563821152 -26.8842557 75.081434236178836 43.4282443tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-48651590383563968192022-10-29T16:11:00.060+02:002022-11-26T16:46:01.543+01:00Cragging at Engi with family<p>Anitas brother Helmut with his family visited us at the end of October. We had barely completed the move and were just ready to receive visitors again. So they drove up from Stuttgart to see if the new house passed muster - it was deemed adequate ;-P On Saturday we all went to Engi for some kids friendly climbing and picnic location. The four kids loved exploring the creek, boulders and climbing wall together. And everybody enjoyed self made hot dogs over an open fire. The next day Leonie insisted on showing off her forest kindergarden to everyone. So we walked there and spent the day romping around the forest. Turned out we weren't the only ones taking advantage of the nice wheather and nice location: a group of other forest kindergarden parents, families and friends had also gathered to make bread on a stick and have a good time. Good weekend all around.</p>
<p>(I try to avoid posting pictures of the kids' faces online, so for the best photos you need to come visit us ;-P)</p>
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<center>The kids exploring the creek right at the parking lot.</center>
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<center>The picnic had to start right away. Packing all these foodstuffs without being allowed to eat them was a challenge before we even left the house.</center>
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<center>Paul in action.</center>
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<center>Same move, different wall.</center>
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<center>The gang roaming the area.</center>
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<center>Climbing instructions?</center>
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<center>Climbing instructions.</center>
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<center>Paul climbing. Me belaying. Leonie waiting her turn and discovering a natural slide.</center>
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<center>Causing chaos.</center>
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<center>Forest kindergarden swing #1</center>
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<center>Forest kindergarden swing #2</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Engi, 8765 Glarus Süd, Switzerland46.9821094 9.153222699999998818.671875563821153 -26.0030273 75.292343236178851 44.3094727tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-62897788507321966302022-10-04T14:24:00.077+02:002022-11-13T15:06:09.602+01:00Brüggler (1777m) via "Grüne Plattenwand", 170m, 5a, with guests ;-P
<p>Matt and Amy were visiting from Pittsburgh. Christian, Christian and I took a day off from work to go climbing with them on Brüggler. Our guests graciously agreed to write up their experience for this blog. Thank you Matt and Amy! Here it is in their words:</p>
<p>While vacationing in Zurich, Switzerland, we learned about 3 types of fun:
<ul>
<li>Type 1 - fun had while doing the activity</li>
<li>Type 2 - fun experienced retrospectively </li>
<li>Type 3 - fun experienced vicariously through the reactions of others</li>
</ul></p>
<p>Looking at the majestic Rhine falls, hiking Mount Stoos, exploring Lucerne - these were all amazing and easily type 1 experiences.</p>
<p>Waking up at 5 AM to take a 1 hour hike to the base of a mountain, climb 200 meters up a sheer rock face, and a 1 hour hike back down- that was less obvious. </p>
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<center>First glimpse of the Brüggler South Wall.</center>
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<center>Matt and Amy on the approach.</center>
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<center>Our welcome committee.</center>
<p>Matt: I’ve been climbing in gyms, on boulders, and up single pitch routes for several years now. This was my first multi-pitch sport climb. I was traveling to Zürich for work and somehow the topic of climbing came up. Sören generously offered to lead a climb and provide equipment that couldn’t easily be taken on a flight. I was super stoked to do my first bigger climb, and in the beautiful Swiss mountains no less! Unfortunately, it rained the entire first week I was there. Luckily, the weather the following week was perfect, and Sören plus a couple of my coworkers needed little convincing to take a vacation day to do some climbing. I was even able to rope my wife into joining us!</p>
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<center>Last instructions before starting the climb...</center>
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<center>...somewhat distracted by the locals.</center>
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<center>Matt and Amy coming up.</center>
<i><p>Amy: I have been intermittently bouldering and occasionally top roping at climbing gyms for the last several years. I had never climbed outside before. When my husband, Matt, asked me if I wanted to climb a mountain with him, I was somewhat hesitant. I love new experiences, but the thought of climbing a real-life mountain was intimidating, to say the least. Most real outdoor climbers would probably not even consider a 200 meter climb a real summit. In fact, The Summit Post calls Brüggler a “harmless, small hill.” Regardless, I decided to go for it. </p></i>
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<center>We dubbed this the "couples cave". Squeezing at the anchor to fit all five of us.</center>
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<center>One of the Christians.</center>
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<center>Both Christians.</center>
<i><p>We met up with Sören in the early hours of the morning on a sunny Tuesday, along with the rest of our climbing crew. Upon seeing Brüggler we were both nervous and excited. After getting through the hike to the base of the mountain, we met our first challenge: goats. Trying to gear up while keeping at least 3 goats at any given time from eating your equipment was a memorable start to the day. Eventually, we were on the cliff face and ready to go. Sören climbed the first pitch with an ease that made it obvious his Alpine climbing stories were no exaggeration. After steeling ourselves, we followed up behind him.</p></i>
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<center>Views.</center>
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<center>Good mood.</center>
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<center>Matt seems to like it.</center>
<p>Matt: After gearing up and tying in (despite the goats’ best efforts) it was off to the first pitch. Sören led, and I belayed while our second group waited for us to be out of their way. After he made it up, I went up next (cleaning as I went) followed by Amy. So far this felt pretty similar to previous climbs, except there would be 5 more pitches. </p>
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<center>Amy demonstrating "spread your legs and trust the rubber" technique.</center>
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<center>Christian.</center>
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<center>Summit ridge. Lake Zürich in the background.</center>
<i><p>Amy: One of my clearest memories from the day was my first fall. While still terrified pretty much the entire time, realizing fully that if I fell I wouldn’t tumble to my death made the rest of the climb much more enjoyable. </p>
<p>Another moment that really stuck with me was the first time I got to a rest point. I sat down, turned around and looked at the view with the valley sprawled out below us and knew that no matter how scary this was, it was worth it. </p></i>
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<center>Summit ridge and shadow of the summit cross.</center>
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<center>Top.</center>
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<center>Even topper.</center>
<p>Matt: After getting to the top of the first pitch we hung out for sec, reset, and Sören led again. This was a completely new experience for us; just sitting back in our harnesses, feet on the wall, and weight completely supported by the rope. I belayed again - belaying from an anchor was a new experience but the motions were familiar. It was actually less stressful now that we were out of reach from the goats below. </p>
<p>Climbing on limestone was a lot of fun, I’ve almost exclusively climbed on granite outdoors. The bomber hand holds and interesting “ribbed” section were a fun mix-up compared to the relative dearth of features found on some granite slabs. </p>
<p>Sören put us at ease with his knowledge and experience. We felt absolutely safe and that he was in control of the situation at all times. He even was kind enough to take some great photos of us climbing the mountain. He is an excellent lead for beginners. </p>
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<center>View towards the city.</center>
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<center>Family photo at the summit.</center>
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<center>Hiking down.</center>
<p>The views all the way up were absolutely fantastic, but the peak was unforgettable. The golden early evening light bathed the surrounding peaks, and the valley below was cast into deep shadows. The gorgeous view, combined with the feeling of accomplishment, was an exceptional experience. And though we had heard the clanging bells, the goats did not reappear to harass us. </p>
<p>So what type of fun did we have? After getting the hang of things and being able to relax into the climb, after writing this post to look back on the day, and after seeing the reactions of friends and family to our adventure- we would say all three. </p>
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<center>Some scrambling required.</center>
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<center>Nice skies in the early evening.</center>
BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Brüggler, 8752 Glarus Nord, Switzerland47.1175 8.9838318.807266163821154 -26.172420000000002 75.427733836178845 44.14008tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8882444.post-50489561003075582842022-09-02T17:42:00.170+02:002022-09-12T16:55:23.082+02:00Vorder Feldschijen Turm III (2828m) via Westgrat, 6a+, 430m<p>Sasha and I drove up to the remote Göschenen valley to climb on the Feldschijen. The guide book praises the West ridge route as one of the most beautiful granite climbs, on par with the famous <a href="https://blog.buschnick.net/2017/08/salbitschijen-2981m-via-super-south.html" target="_blank">Salbit ridges</a>. The only fly in the ointment is a two hour approach. Now Sasha is a well trained endurance monster, regularly going on 100+km bike rides and spending most weekends on the rock. Not to mention his Eiger-Northface-in-a-Day (!) ascent. Poor ole dad bod me had a hard time keeping up. We still made it to the base in the time allotted by the guide book, so I guess I'm not quite retired just yet.</p>
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<center>Cool art at a highway reststop.</center>
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<center>On the approach.</center>
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<center>You can see almost the entire route from the approach.</center>
<p>I got to lead the first pitch: a beautiful 5c+ following a series of cracks and flakes. Not trivial, not hard - perfect plaisir climbing. We alternated leads and quickly got into an efficient rhythm. It's a long route of some 14 pitches and 430m of elevation gain. As a ridge, the interesting steep pitches are interspersed with more mellow traverses. These we ended up linking together and simulclimbing as blocks of 2-4 pitches.</p>
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<center>First pitch. Beautiful flakes and cracks.</center>
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<center>Sasha coming up.</center>
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<center>Hanging out.</center>
<p>When the route got rebolted the restaurateurs decided to change its line slightly and stick to the direct approach up the ridge instead of an easier detour around the back. This made the climb slightly harder, 6a instead of 5c, but the reward is by far the most beautiful stretch of the entire route! Razor sharp ridge. Great exposure to either side. But always just enough holds to make the climbing pure joy. Amazing!</p>
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<center>Backlit Sasha.</center>
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<center>A cruising 4b crack. The easier pitches were still fun on this route!</center>
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<center>A traverse.</center>
<p>Sasha got to lead the crux pitch of the route: a 6a 3pa (6a+). 3pa implying that you are expected to cheat by pulling on/stepping on gear for three moves. It took a bit of puzzling, but Sasha ended up climbing it in good style without using any aid. Chapeau! Especially as I was struggling with the overhanging off-balance move even as a follower.</p>
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<center>Duelling photographers.</center>
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<center>Getting steeper again.</center>
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<center>Setting out on the money pitch: the 6a ridge.</center>
<p>After that was done, it was easy cruising terrain all the way to the summit. A single quick rappel got us back down to the saddle. The climbing barely took us 3.5h. Not too shabby, considering the length of the route, my current lack of training and the posted time of 4h+ in the guidebook.</p>
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<center>Glorious! All along the razor's edge ridge, with dramatic exposure on either side.</center>
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<center>Sasha on the last few moves of the ridge pitch.</center>
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<center>View to the other side.</center>
<p>For the way back the recommendation is to bring good shoes. For good reason. It's a steep scree slope interspersed with some massive boulders. Again Sasha was charging ahead - despite his declaration that he'd take it slow because he had just gotten stitches removed from his shin - the consequence of loose rocks in terrain just like this cutting him to the bone on an outing a few weeks ago. Anyway. We make it back down to the proper hiking trail in good time. And stop dead in a traffic jam of goats. There are some 200 of them living up this alp and they were all marching down in single file with us. Overtaking on the narrow and steep path was difficult. You'd get the best opportunity whenever the animals would make one of their (frequent) stops to scratch themselves. I've tried pushing some out of the way, but they turned out to be stubborn, sturdy as rocks and not at all in a hurry. So I contended myself with a goat herder's pace and we made it back to the car exactly 8 hours after we left it in the morning. Fantastic day!</p>
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<center>Sasha just past the crux of the 6a+ pitch. Harder than it looks!</center>
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<center>The summit book dates back to the year 2000.</center>
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<center>Summit selfie.</center>
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<center>Our taste of Half Dome's "<a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/SweatyPalms/comments/alfkgi/the_thank_god_ledge_in_yosemite_national_park/" target="_blank">Thank God Ledge</a>". Not quite as dramatic, but at this point we were also unroped and it was *very* steep and *very* far down...</center>
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<center>A long descent over loose boulders and scree.</center>
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<center>The bridge was closed for human traffic ;-P</center>
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<center>Stuck in a traffic jam for the walk back down.</center>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe class="BLOG_video_class" allowfullscreen="" youtube-src-id="FqNnE3U4cPg" width="320" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FqNnE3U4cPg"></iframe></div>BuschnicKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932499350055246132noreply@blogger.com0Vorder Feldschijen, 6487 Göschenen, Switzerland46.6312466 8.493818118.321012763821152 -26.6624319 74.941480436178836 43.6500681