2017-04-22

Climbing Brochne Burg

We explored a new crag on Saturday. The Brochne Burg is an old castle ruin sitting on top of an outcrop overlooking Liechtenstein. You can climb all around the castle in the old defensive moat. Short routes, but lots of them. You can choose the best wall to climb on based on the position of the sun, which is very convenient as a cold wind was blowing.

The main canyon. The castle used to sit on the top right.
Oscar.
Catherine.

Andrey and I teamed up and Oscar and Catherine. We climbed a whole bunch of easy routes before setting up a top rope for Nachtshiisser, 7a. It features a bouldery sequence through a small roof right from the start. Once you've mastered that it becomes easy. It took a few tries, but we eventually figured out the correct sequence. There is a surprisingly large number of overhanging routes in a very reasonable difficulty range (6a-ish). This is rare, and leads to some very satisfying and fun climbing moves. Usually overhangs are much harder.

Oscar.
Another (the same?) castle on the neighboring ridge.
Nice picnic spot on the old walls.

The place is just over an hour of driving away from home and features an approach of a leisurely 10 minute stroll. Definitely worth returning to.

I climbed:

  • Nachtschiisser, 7a
  • Finale, 5c+
  • Briefkastendächli, 6a+
  • Buuch, 6a
  • Eggli, 5c+
  • Lotti kneift, 5b
  • Dagoberts $, 4c
  • Beim Teutates, 6a+
  • Foxi, 6b
  • Wissä Sunntig, 5c+
Andrey in the roof of Nachtschiisser.
Me, climbing out of the same roof.