2024-08-31

Läged Windgällen West (2'572m) via "Langi Zyt", 200m, 6a

Björn and I went up to the Läged Windgällen. I had been there just a few weeks prior with Arne. At the time we had to bail before we even started climbing - just when we had reached the base of the wall, a thunderstorm was rolling in and got everything thoroughly wet. This time the weather was great. In fact, up high was where it was bearable, the valleys were way too hot. The one successful climb I had already done on this mountain was the Zentralpfeiler. I remembered that as a pretty old school mountaineering route, requiring strong nerves on so-so rock and sparse protection. Luigi had recently returned with somebody else, climbing yet another route, and reported that it was "mental": sparsely protected and with a lot of exposure. So it was that Björn and I came prepared, bringing extra trad gear and expecting the worst.

It's a pretty wide wall with lots of (potential) routes. But apparently the rock quality isn't consistently great.
Björn.
Sören.

We would be surprised! It turned out to be a complete plaisir climb. The rock quality, while not bomber everywhere, was solid enough for an alpine climb. And the protection and diffiulty grade were well within our comfort zone so that we didn't place any additional gear. We made good time up and down and were surprised that the route book, although being shared between two routes, had only few entries dating all the way back to 2005. Great day out! Can I haz moar of these pleaz?

IIRC This might have been the crux pitch?
Super fun dihedral.
The second but last 5c pitch.
Quite overhanging for the grade, but on friendly jugs. Fun!
"Langi Zyt" and "Linke Südwand" share a route book and merge near the top.
Family photo.
Final pitch to the top. At this point three routes converge and we weren't 100% sure we climbed the right one. They are all similar in grade, so I guess it doesn't really matter.
Almost there!
Preparing to rappel.
Björn celebrating.
Lunch break on a nice ledge on the way down.
I eye-balled the other routes that we crossed during the rappel. They look eminently doable and worth returning for.
This guy (or his cousins) accompanied us for quite some time.
Mission accomplished.