2012-05-30

Brüggler (1777m) climbing the 200m south wall

We went for two whole days of climbing this (long) weekend. On Sunday Björn, Håvard and me rented a car and went to the Brüggler. We climbed the "Spreizrinne". Multiple pitches of fine limestone. Our topo rates it at 6a+ (UIAA VII-) but stops just below the summit tower. Of course we had to go all the way and discovered that the final pitch was by far the most difficult. Wet undercut holds in partly overhanging terrain. I led it but didn't manage to climb it clean. I needed several rests, hanging in the ropes and even cheating by using a bolt as a foothold. The others didn't fare much better and used additional aids. We rechristened the top part of the route "crazy ass pitch from hell" which was followed by the "insaaaaaanely exposed ridge".

The objective
Håvard
Björn
Sören
View
Summit!

On Monday Andrey, Håvard, Ian and me went to the same wall again. This time we climbed "Sonntagsweg". 7 pitches with the crux at the very end, rated 6b (UIAA VII). I managed to climb everything clean this time. A bit painful since the limestome is razor sharp in places and my big toe was sticking out of my worn and torn climbing shoes (already ordered two new pairs and a lot more gear ;-)). The others chose an alternate route to avoid the hard bit at the top. We had a scary moment when Andrey was leading the second but last pitch. I was belaying him and he had just climbed into a very easy walking section out of sight from me when I suddenly felt a lot of slack on the ropes followed by a surprised scream and a head sized boulder crashing down the couloir two meters away from me. Andrey had slipped and fallen head first down the slope. Fortunately no one got hurt. Again we felt the need to improve on the names: "impossible one finger pull" and "canyon of painful death".

A very successful, very fun and very international expedition (Norway, Sweden, Scotland, Russia, Germany).

Håvard in action
Ian
Andrey
The long Rappel back down (you can just make out our backpacks to the right)