2021-07-03

Pfriendler (2,514m), via "Neue Linie", 6b, 6 pitches

The weather forecast wasn't all that great, so we couldn't aim for something "big". Luigi 1, Luigi 2 and I still wanted to climb some granite, so we decided on the Pfriendler pillar at the Sustenpass. Conveniently located only half an hour hike off the pass road and bolted in a way that allows for a retreat via rapelling, it seemed like a save choice.

Nice views from the snow field at the base.
Pfriendler.
Luigi on the first few moves. A 6a pitch.

Due to some miscommunication in the morning I was sitting in front of my house waiting for them to pick me up while they were sitting in front of Gigi's house waiting for me to pick them up. This delayed our start a bit ;-) When we arrived at the Sustenpass shortly after 9am there were already quite a few climbers hiking up the trail of the approach. None of us had been to this particular wall before and we were surprised to find it this popular. It is densely bolted with many routes providing near gym levels of comfort. So it's really no wonder that it's popular.

Sneaking out under the roof.
Comfy anchor.
Me hanging out in front of the Fünffingerstock ridge. A fantastic alpine climb.

Gigi 1 being the only one in our group who got significant training time recently insisted on climbing the hardest route on the wall: "Neue Linie", graded 6b. He dismissed Gigi 2 and my complaints about lack of training and sleep and called Gigi 2s occasional grab for a quickdraw a "disgrace". Not the cleanest style admittedly, but maybe also not the best way to motivate climbing partners? Especially if their choice would have been an easier route to begin with...

The camera may have been tilted a bit for this picture ;-)
Middle of the wall.
Top of the wall.

We still had a good time - this really is a nice piece of granite. Despite the many parties around, we were the only ones on our line, so it only got crowded once we topped out on the narrow ridge. Summit convergence. We enjoyed some quick snacks and made haste to rappel down again. Still expecting the weather to turn on us any minute. And indeed, we turned out to have perfect timing. The drizzle started exactly as we reached the base of the wall and turned into a proper downpour once were safely back in the car. Too bad for the other parties still on the wall ;-P

Descent.

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